Features

 

Back to Basics

Best of In The Fray 2007. Why newspapers need to embrace narrative.

In its purest form, the newspaper was to serve as a city guardian. This was because the paper broke news. It informed and protected its constituency by imparting necessary fact.

Of course this isn’t print’s role any longer. Only the Internet and 24-hour broadcast news really break news now, faster and more cheaply. But newspapers have yet to adjust their role or articulate this shift. They continue to assume the obstinately objective, dispassionate voice of news breaker and to report facts that have already been reported elsewhere.

The combined effect of print’s inability to keep pace with today’s hard news cycle and its reluctance to abandon its official tone — even though it rarely delivers the latest word — has meant disaster for subscription dailies’ revenues. But — more importantly — in clinging to the old form, print journalists forego the chance to take up, at last, the greater journalistic tradition: the tradition of narrative news.

Narrative news is the retelling of real events with the intent to marry information to story, story being the artful rendering of events and the people who are part of them. Narrative is deliberate. Its structure, style, and voice are employed to reflect levels of meaning — social, psychological, historical — and to impart a sense of the greater significance of the action.

Narrative is a salable product for the simple fact that we live by it. We’re all always making sense of experience according to a story’s essential elements: continuity, character, and concept. H. Porter Abbott, a scholar of narrative, writes that narrative is “the principal way in which our species organizes its understanding of time”; that narrative gives us a sense of the shape of time, of our place in infinite space. In this respect, narrative is the essential element of human existence: It gives our lives meaning.

As such, it’s our inherent mode of comprehension and expression. Well-crafted narrative journalism demands the reader’s engagement; its structure and voice work to invest the reader in the page. Traditional methods of journalism preach the virtue of information and the plain language that delivers it: the maintenance of distance between journalist and reader, the antinarrative. But in attempting to distance themselves from their audience, journalists have only distanced the audience from their product.

This realization is not new, nor is the notion of including narrative in daily news. Many papers feature long-form news reports that editors habitually refer to as narrative. But to dress up any ordinary bit of journalism with superficial literary techniques — arbitrary metaphor, description, or wordplay — is not narrative. Nor is the insertion of a descriptive scene into an otherwise ordinary news piece. These are merely fast and facile attempts to disguise dull writing. But gussied-up inverted pyramids are only barely more appealing than un-gussied ones.

Were newspapers to attempt real narrative, the shift would require an investment in time. Such an investment is best suited to a newspaper, which can thrive on taking the time — a luxury that neither online nor broadcast news can afford. Because of its requisite slow carefulness, written narrative seems ill-suited to the web (read: print’s key competitor), which is fast-paced to a fault. And because the great appeal of the Web is its ability to display fragments of information and to deliver text in no predetermined sequence, that medium seems ill-suited to long-form story. The very concept of the nonlinear network conflicts with the nature of narrative, the basis of which is structured continuity. Story unfolds with deliberate intent, not in flashes.

Print journalists and publishers should take advantage of this media dissonance. Because straight information is base metal to narrative’s gem, it has evolved into a communal property, for which the public is ever less willing to pay. It will grow less salable over time, not only because its availability increases exponentially with the influx of new technology, but also because, as writing, it does little to engage its reader.

By contrast, narrative moves readers precisely because it embraces the communicative properties common to everyday conversation. Like conversational language, the language of narrative operates under established patterns: for example, the chronological structure of a story that is simply told. It draws upon common ideas and objects to evoke greater and yet-unseen ideas. And maybe most importantly, narrative, like spoken language, conveys something between people. It specifies its message to an audience through its tone, diction, frame of reference, and use of rich language.

People respond positively to these properties and are willing to pay for work that incorporates them because the writing feels real. Narrative is humanizing. It makes sense of our world. It echoes the ways we speak our own stories and the ways we relate to one another. It’s an ideal form through which to learn about our society.

 

No rest for the Good Samaritan

200712_activists.jpgActivist Lupe Anguiano reflects on a life spent fighting for equality.

 

Lupe Anguiano is a former nun who offers a religious framework that counters Christian conservatism. She was a pioneer in welfare activism and the women’s rights movement, and reframed religious debates to include issues of social justice. At the opening of the Lupe Anguiano archive at UCLA earlier this year, she was called, “truly an unsung heroine of the American civil rights movement.”

Below, Anguiano discusses the perils of large, rich institutions, and recounts a time when the church actually leaned left.  

Interviewer: Anja Tranovich
Interviewee: Lupe Anguiano

How have your religious beliefs influenced your activism?

I was always raised knowing we were made in the image and likeness of God. Fighting for equality has always been part of my upbringing. I was always brought up with the dignity of people.

Equality is something I have always struggled with. My dad was from an Indian background, and my mom was a Spaniard. My dad’s mom was the housekeeper to my mother’s parents. There was struggle from both of my grandparents’ sides. There were a lot of equalities issues.

To tell you the truth, the whole issue of standing up for your rights, I didn’t feel the need or strength of that until the ’60s.

You went into the convent when you were young, but got reprimanded because of your activism during the ’60s, especially on civil rights issues. What were you doing then?

I was a missionary sister, and the whole training is to respect others’ languages and cultures and not to impose your own ideas, and to be respectful of people, particularly of the poor. If people are poor, it shows the need for education; it’s not an issue of intelligence.

I feel very strongly about the issue of equality because I am Latina — Mexican American — and I had experienced problems of inequality among our people and black people. Some of the training I had as a missionary sister was to observe, judge, act — you observe, you judge, you act. You, as a citizen, have responsibility to stand up and do your part to make things equal for everyone. I was working with agricultural workers, with Latinos and black people as a missionary sister, and I saw some [of] the discrepancies and discrimination in how they were treated, especially with red lining. I thought that the church needed to stand up for these people.

One of my big confrontations, or rather challenges, with the church was with red lining, when blacks and Mexican Americans were not allowed to buy homes in certain areas of Los Angeles. I started to work for open housing. So did other nuns and priests, and many people were reprimanded.

I eventually left the missionary sisters because of that issue. The cardinal in Los Angeles then, Cardinal McIntyre, really forbade the sisters and priests from getting involved. The cardinal had local ties with developers, so he didn’t want to offend them. Some of us felt that it’s not an issue of not wanting to offend, but an issue of educating the Catholic community, that this is what the church stands for: equality.

That’s when you really saw the first exodus, not only myself, but also many others.

Pope John XXIII called for us to get involved with social issues. The pope called a Vatican Council and said that the church needed to be more involved and, like Christ, go out and work with people instead of just working in the convent.
So from the pope’s standpoint, and really knowing the doctrines of [the] church, we had to speak out and oppose on the local level.

The church used to have more involvement in these types of social issues. If you look at New York when unions were first founded, when the worker was exploited, the church stood up in support of the worker. And as a result of the church’s support, the unions were able to form.

Now you don’t see that kind of activism from the church.

You are right. Some of the very conservative churches have used the name of God and Christ to discriminate, particularly against women. It’s very confusing right now. You see the evangelical churches really coming down very hard on the equality of women and immigration, and supporting unjust things like the war. In those days [in the ’60s], the churches would be up in arms against the war. Today you just don’t have that.

Why is that?

[In] my honest opinion, I think it’s because of wealth and institutionalization of religion. Many times, ministers and priests and cardinals and bishops are more concerned about supporting the buildings and institutions instead of the message of Christ.

When Christ started the church, he lived his example — compassion, love, equality, peace, and justice. The church has become more concerned with sustaining the institution instead of Jesus’ message.

You see that in government as well. There is a general trend toward protecting the institution for the institution’s sake.
My feeling is that we’ve come to the point where people have to act. They have to look at their communities and voice their concern.

I was really delighted with the change in Congress, but there are still so many issues. Oil companies are really raiding the pocketbook[s] of the American people; it’s the height of injustice to Americans and all people. Bush doesn’t do anything about it, the church doesn’t say anything about it, and neither does the government.
I thank God we are in a free country; there is always the opportunity for change. I am 78 and I rely a lot on young people.

You did a lot of work for women in the ’70s alongside Gloria Steinem and Bella Abzug, forming the National Women’s Political Caucus and advocating for policies like the Equal Rights Amendment, which still hasn’t passed. In the ’70s, did you think that movement would have made more gains than it has?

Yes, because you know we were like on a roll; the Equal Rights Amendment was almost certified. I did a lot of work to bring church support to the Equal Rights Amendment.

You are often credited with changing the religious debate on this issue.

I was disappointed that it didn’t pass.

There were internal struggles within the movement as well. When I was fighting to change welfare so that it promoted education and training to help women go to work, some feminists decried having Latina women out of the house and working. Well, they were already working! Even the women at the Women’s Conference felt that we might be dismantling the safety net of Latina women by helping them work. How would we be dismantling their safety net by giving them the right to work? Not to do so would be condemning them to live in poverty. “Protect the minority women.” What is this?

Here we are, and women still earn 70 cents on every dollar earned by men. Talk about inequality! We still have it right now.

Gloria, Bella, and I thought, if you are going to talk about equality, we have to talk about equality across the board. They were very supportive.

I think we need the Equal Rights Amendment and its clear interpretation of equality for all. We need to really see equal rights from a total perspective of all people.

What I would like to see is young people really looking at equality from a local, state, and national perspective, and using their global eyes to really look at the world. You guys have a big job to do. I really believe in young people.

I sometimes feel that those concerned and active in younger generations are in the minority.

That’s always the case. Revolutions are started in groups of 10 or 12. If you can educate people to the issues and provide information, people will start to come out.

What are you working on now?

We are fighting the oil companies here in Ventura County, California. 
The Houston-based Northern Star natural gas company is trying to bring liquid natural gas into the area. For two years we’ve been fighting against them. All the independent studies commissioned on the topic show that the need for natural gas is flat. It’s questionable whether or not we really need it, and it will do great harm to the coastal environment.

California is very resourceful. We have a lot of innovators, companies creating wind and solar solutions. Investing in liquid natural gas will prevent us from investing in clean energy. The lieutenant governor [of California] has been really fighting with us.

We are also really dealing with the legacy of Enron. We’ve heard the tapes, how Enron manipulated the California energy market, manipulating the need. This seems like such a clear parallel, and we are very conscious of that. 

You’ve been involved in so many different campaigns: workers’ rights, unions, women’s rights, welfare reform, and environmental activism. What draws you to a particular subject or campaign?

Well, I am going to share with you a big secret. In reality, what I think happens to me is that our Lord just places me at the right place at the right time.

I do not enjoy confrontation. I would like to go to the hermitage and get away from all this stuff.

But I am placed in a situation, and I say, in my [conscience], I say: this is wrong. And I start becoming involved with people who are really doing something about it. I come in and support that work.

Recently I’ve been working with the Environmental Defense Center and Susan Jordan. She’s been an environmentalist all her life. She’s come up with some concise documents pinpointing some of the inequalities with the liquid natural gas issue. You have to be really dumb not to see it.

I’ll tell you what got me really ignited: when President Bush and the Congress signed the energy bill. It was more than I could handle. I just saw the exploitation [by] oil and gas companies. You’d have to be very callous and not very alert to see that. That [becoming angry] happens to me, and I guess it should really happen to a lot of people.

It’s a challenge. I would like to have young people take over so I can just rest.

What advice do you have for those young people?

To be strong.

We have a [conscience], and we know what’s right and wrong. We need to listen to our intelligence and come together.
And not to lose hope.

We can’t allow ourselves to get into a situation where we are ruled by the institutions around us.

 

May good things not become a stranger to you

An American learns how to visit in Morocco.200712_ttlg2.jpg 

So much of life in Morocco is about visiting. Although it’s true that cell phones are prevalent here, they are rarely used for those long, haven’t-heard-from-you-in-a-while talks people have in the United States. That is still just too expensive an option for the average Moroccan to even consider.

Instead, people here visit. The culture of visiting penetrates the rituals and day-to-day life of Moroccans. Most houses have decorated guest rooms that go unused until there is a knock on the door. Then the house goes into “guest mode.” Sweets and nuts are pulled out of cabinets and placed on the best china. Water is immediately put on the stove to boil for tea. If ever it seems your visit has caught your hosts off guard, perhaps they are simply out of mint leaves. Don’t worry, they will quickly send someone out to one of the neighborhood grocers to bring back what is needed. 

Make sure NOT to call before you come by

If you should unexpectedly stop by a friend or neighbor’s house in Morocco, don’t feel as though you have inconvenienced anyone; visits here are rarely planned. They are impromptu social calls that say “I was thinking about you” or “I was in the neighborhood.” Moroccans actually feel honored by the idea that you feel close enough to them to just stop by unannounced.

I have had more than one person here stress to me that I need not call before I come over. 

“Even if it was at meal time, you would just eat whatever we have that day. You’d just be like one of the household,” one friend said.  

When I told another acquaintance that I still hesitate before knocking unexpectedly on someone’s door because of my American conditioning to call first and ask permission, she burst into laughter. It was probably the funniest thing she had heard all day.

A few weeks ago, I spontaneously visited a friend and her mother who live in the old city of Fes. As we were sitting around, drinking coffee with milk and eating homemade pastry, my friend’s mother told me how she was about to get on her way to visit her brother just before I came, but changed her plans because she’d had the strong premonition that some guest was headed her way. 

“And it was you,” she marveled. I tried to share in her astonishment, but in a country where everybody visits, the odds were good that somebody would stop by.

In some situations, visiting becomes an obligation. You run into someone on the street or call to say “salaam” to an acquaintance, and they say, “You’ve become a stranger! You don’t come by.”

This scenario played out a few days ago with a family in my neighborhood. They had told me to stop by weeks earlier, but I had not gotten around to it. When I finally showed up, the first thing they said to me was that they had just been talking about how I hadn’t called or come by.

On an obligatory visit, make sure to go at an appropriate time, meaning not after 11:30-ish, because you will be “taken” for lunch. The midday meal is the big one in Morocco, and if you show up too close to it’s time, it is as if you are inviting yourself to be taken in for lunch. Moroccans use the expression “I was taken” to describe being kept at someone’s house unexpectedly or talked into joining someone for a meal after having run into him or her on the street.

Hold your water

It is inconceivable that anyone should visit a Moroccan house and leave without having eaten or drunk something. And if you dare try, you will be shamed into either staying until the food is prepared, or eating something from what is immediately available.

Sometimes I have fit a visit into my day when I really didn’t have the time or when I had prior commitments. I have always managed to untangle myself from an extended layover with what I call the “water and a promise” strategy: I ask for a cup of water, then drink it in such a way as to show how refreshed I feel. This means holding the glass as if it contains a precious life-saving liquid, then taking slow, serious gulps while maintaining eye contact with my host. This is followed by the kind of “ahhh” you see in cola commercials, quickly followed by a deep, sincere “praise God” as I put the glass down definitively on the tray, making sure to make a noise. Then I promise to return later for tea or couscous.

Day dreaming

If you are actually invited for lunch, it is likely that after the meal you will be offered the chance to take a nap on one of the lovely couches in the guest room. Just last week, after a hearty lunch of couscous with chicken and seven vegetables, followed by a dessert of bananas, apples, and tangerines, my host handed me a warm blanket and a pillow, and showed me a couch upon which I could recline. Even if it feels a bit strange, don’t fight it. Just about everybody in the house will probably conk out for an hour or so, and then wake up and have some tea.

The most common time to visit, which happens to be the time I prefer, is right after the late afternoon prayer, which is generally around three o’clock in the afternoon. During your visit, you will be served a light snack, such as some sort of pastry or homemade bread with an accompaniment of cheese, jam, or olives, and either mint tea or coffee with milk.

The great thing about the late afternoon prayer visit is that the sundown prayer is close enough to give you an excuse if you should need one to end your visit. In most parts of Morocco, sunset generally marks the end of the day in terms of outside life; people go home when night comes.

The only danger you might face if sunset finds you in a Moroccan home is being roped into spending the night. No, this is not the third grade — people here actually want you to spend the night at their place! And not having brought your toothbrush is no excuse. If your host is of a persistent nature, there is actually no excuse good enough to get you out of spending the night, except for having a major medical operation scheduled early the next morning.

You would be surprised how easily a lunch invitation turns into a sleepover request. And should you end up spending the night, don’t think you’re getting out of the house as soon as the sun rises. Eat breakfast, relax, and pray you’ll be able to escape before lunch. Pray hard.

Don’t go empty handed

What to take as a gift when you go visiting is another issue. It varies depending on the length of time since you last saw the person, on the occasion, and on the financial situations of you and your host. 

If you are a foreigner — especially one from Europe or the United States — your resources are assumed to be great. And they just well might be, but there’s no need to blow everyone else out of the water! Simple food items will do as a gift. The idea is to augment what you are about to consume.

Typical things Moroccans bring each other on casual visits include cartons of milk, sugar (sometimes in the shape of huge bells), a few kilos of whatever fruit is in season, or mint leaves. The more special the visit, the more special the foodstuff: pure raw honey, for instance; pastries; fresh buttermilk (very much appreciated by Moroccans, as it goes well with couscous); or a live chicken — yes a <i>live</i> chicken — which your hosts themselves will have the honor of killing.

Of course, it is a part of the culture of visiting that your hosts should say, “Oh you shouldn’t have,” and perhaps even refuse your gift initially. They might pretend offense, saying that the gift is making the relationship too formal, and that they thought you were like sisters, brothers, or cousins. Just insist, push the gift into their arms, and say you refuse to enter their house with your hands empty. I find this is usually enough for them to accept the gift and allow the visit to proceed.

 I don’t know why you say good-bye, when I say …

Visiting in Morocco does follow a rigorous protocol, and sometimes it is hard to distinguish true hospitality from custom. But when you’ve finally sunk down into the Moroccan cushions, and you’re sipping your hot beverage and laughing with friends, you will be so glad you stopped by.

When at last you finally make it to the front door (which will not happen on your first try — three is usually the charm), someone is bound to leave you with the parting phrase, “Don’t become a stranger.”

At this point, you respond, as it is custom to do in Morocco, by saying, “May good things not become a stranger to you.”

 

Journal of the Ladybug

Best of In The Fray 2007. You might find it disturbing, you might find it beautiful.

My mother was one of those unforgettable people. She was a great musician, composer, friend, and catalyst. She did not, however, have the same passions for the role of being a mother. She knew and felt guilty about this fact in her later years. My picture of her is not the same picture most people carry in their memories. For them, she was a friend, a composer, a drinking buddy, and was fun to be around. Her love for others was not far from the unconditional love I so deeply craved as a child.

When she died, I decided to make new memories based on other people’s impressions of her. I am doing this in two ways: I am making a book of memories in a biography form, and I am making a day-to-day installation of death being part of my everyday life. In order for you to understand the process and the reason for the Ladybug’s journey, I will share with you something you might either find disturbing or beautiful. My aim is to make something beautiful from something ugly; my responsibility of creation is like this. I feel the pain; I transform the pain into joy. I experience death; I transform death into life. Grief is an evolution of loss. By transforming loss into gain, I can heal the wounds from the past.

My mother suffered from a disease, a disease that began when she was a child. It is called a severe, delusional sense of guilt. It started when her younger brother died in a car accident at the age of seven. She somehow got it into her head that she had something to do with his death; she didn’t lend him her yellow boots before he went off on his bike. During that time, no one talked about grief or loss. People just bottled it up and carried on. This guilt became larger than life and too much to cope with, and when she had her first taste of liquor to ease the disease, she was struck by another disease called alcoholism. The combination of these two diseases is usually lethal. And so, it was her fate to drink her talents, her voice, her music, and her life away in a haze of dysfunctional behavior, primarily toward herself. My mother lived in Denmark for many years, a self-made expatriate outlaw from her native island, Iceland.

She had one especially beautiful gift few people possess: She had the same respect for everyone, no matter if a person was a vagrant lady or the president. It was not unusual to have a person of the elite pay my mother a visit at the same time as a person from the streets of Reykjavik was using her sewing machine. She showed the same interest in people close to her as to the people she barely knew. Today, I see this as an almost enlightened state of being.

Like so many true artists, despite all her faults, she was greater than life. During her last years on this planet, she lost the connection with her creative muse. She withdrew further into her disease and self-destructive patterns. She told no one how ill she was as she dealt with lung cancer on her own in another country: no drugs, no operations, no hospitals. She was doing this death battle as was done in the old days: She knew her time on this planet was coming to an end, and she didn’t fight it. She didn’t want to change anything.

No one knew she was coughing up blood until she finally fell down bleeding on the floor in her local grocery shop, died, and was revived. Her fall was great, but greater still was her ability to make no fuss over life and death. She stayed for one day at the hospital, and she spent that day calming family and friends, telling us not to worry. She believed she would be home the following day. I could hear that her voice was frail. I managed to convince her that it was a good idea that my brother and I fly to Denmark to visit with her at the hospital. She sounded ill, yet she had not lost her pitch-black humor. The day before, she lost one-third of her blood on the floor in the shop. She never did anything halfway.

Early next morning, as my brother and I were boarding the plane for Denmark to stay with her at her deathbed, we got a call; our mother had passed away in her sleep during the night. It was the most difficult journey I have ever taken. To hold the grief within — a tsunami of emotion — because it is not socially acceptable to lose it in public spaces like planes, my brother and I made sure not to look at each other. We just breathed shallowly to keep it all in. And, in perfect harmony with the dramatic flair of my everyday life, the low-budget plane was full of dentists, including my own dentist, who was getting drunker as each moment passed. The only thing missing was for them to start singing one of my mother’s songs.

When the long journey was finally over, we arrived at the hospital where my mother had taken her last breath. In a surreal way, we had to run around this big and impersonal hospital to find her body and the rest of her belongings. Since it is totally socially acceptable to sort of lose it around death, I did when I finally got to see her shell. And as I was kissing her lifeless face, stroking her hair full of blood, and sensing that she was really gone, I was granted the true realization of the fact that indeed my father was also dead, despite wishful thinking for 20 years.

My father walked into an ice-cold river on Christmas Eve some 20 years ago. He didn’t know how to swim, and thus his mission was suicide. His body was never recovered, so his death was always a bit unreal. Later, my husband played the same suicidal game. His bones, however, were found five years later in the beautiful and breathtaking landscape of the glacier where the entrance to the center of the Earth is supposed to be, at least according to Jules Verne. Thus, that death was also unreal. Yet in this process, I realized the value of the ritual of death. I realized the importance of tears rolling down into the fabric of death: touching, smelling, feeling, and making new memories beyond death.

My brother and I had to leave Denmark before the remains of my mother would be transformed into ashes. We were told we could have the urn with her ashes sent to us. My mother had a boyfriend; they had managed to stick together, based on resentment, for a long time. Perhaps they loved each other, but they had a strange and destructive way of showing it to each other. The boyfriend didn’t want to have a wake for my mother, nor did he want to take part in her funeral in Iceland. He decided to save some money on the shipment of my mother’s ashes. Instead of sending her remains the way they are usually are sent — via plane in a sturdy, solid box — he sent my mother’s remains the inexpensive way: via regular mail. He placed the box with the urn inside a bigger box, and wrapped some newspapers around it. When the ashes arrived, the contents of the box rattled a bit.

My mother had specifically asked for her remains to be scattered into the same river that my father had walked into. My brother and I thought that was too depressing. We wanted to have a grave, at last, to visit. Visiting her at our father’s suicide point just didn’t feel right, despite the beautiful landscape. My grandmother wanted to honor my mother’s last wishes, so there was a rift in the family about this. Being a chronic diplomat at times like this, I got a brilliant yet illegal idea: split the ashes. Some could be put in the old graveyard next to her brother and her father, and some could be scattered in the cold river to be united with the spirit of our father. In Iceland, the laws say that ashes must either be scattered in one place or be buried. So after all, it was good that she came in the regular mail — we could do whatever we felt was right.

I had offered to split the ashes between the urn and a container that looked like an old milk carton. I had the box next to my bed; I was imagining how dramatic it would be to perform this task. Finally, one night before the burial ceremony, I took the box to the living room. I opened it slowly and found out that the lid of the urn had opened and the ashes had scattered all over the bigger box. I thought, “What the fuck, shit, damn should I do?” In a panic, I took the box out to the balcony, and then I thought, “She never liked being placed in a box anyway,” and I laughed, hard. This was just too bizarre, like a Charlie Chaplin film. I took the container out and tried to pour the ashes back into it and the urn, but so much of it had spilled out that some of it was on the balcony, some of it was on my hands, and some of it took flight with the sharp wind. At this point I thought, “Why not take this all the way? This is not half as disgusting as I thought it would be. This is like beautiful shells, like beach sand,” and I liked it.

So I got out my ladybug box. I had kept my children’s baby teeth and a lock from each of their first haircut in it. I emptied it out and poured some of the ashes into the belly of the ladybug. I decided to place inside the urn stuff that reminded me of my mother. I knew she would be happy to have certain personal items close to her earthly remains. I placed a little guitar pin, a lighter shaped like a cigarette, and a heart-shaped piece of paper that said “I love you” in her ashes. It felt really good. Then I took some photos of the urn, and thus the photo journey began. Later that night I had to blow my nose, and I realized that I had literally snorted my mother into my nose, because the stuff that came out of my nose was ash. I realized that my mother and I had gone full circle. I used to be in her belly, a part of her, and now she was in my bloodstream, thus a part of me. And this was beautiful and funny at the same time. I was at peace.

Shortly after we scattered her ashes and buried the rest, I was chanting. I had the ladybug on my altar. I suddenly got a very strong sense that my mother wanted me to take the ladybug with me as I went around my daily life. So I did. This photo journey is the making of new memories, the full circle, the forgiving — the alchemist of life changing poison into healing medicine. No one can escape death, yet we, in our modern-day life, have alienated the ritual of death from our daily lives, from our hearts, from our core being. This is my attempt to create a new ritual from an ancient one.

When I was a kid, my great-grandmother died at my grandfather’s home while performing her daily ritual of foot bathing. My grandparents kept her body in their bedroom for a few days. There she was, so peaceful in her casket, for family and friends to experience the moment of “good-bye,” to create new memories in the peaceful ambience of a private home. This ritual has almost vanished. People now die in old people homes. If you are lucky, you get to see the body during a hurried ceremony, and then it is all over.

The ladybug concept can be used by anyone who needs new memories, who needs to weave life into death, and to change grief into joy.

[Click here to enter the photo essay.]

Related pieces:

SONG—When the violin is silent

POEM—Songbird

 

Waiting room

200711_interact1.jpgFor a young cancer patient, it’s an especially nerve-racking place.

We need funny stories, warm blankets, and magazines just to keep our minds from focusing on the waiting room, the gateway to chemo land. It must be different for other kinds of patients — nurses and doctors don’t necessarily remind them of death.

The first time, my mother and I walked toward the room in silence, holding hands. I’d collapsed without warning in a Miami shopping mall. Eight days before, I’d had an emergency 12-hour brain surgery to remove the softball-sized tumor wanting to kill.

The hallways were cold and quiet. The green chemotherapy sign grew closer, and our hands grasped tighter. More people arrived: an older couple, a young girl in her 20s, a young boy with his mother. Others fell asleep or watched the TV at full blast.

Only a few people in front of us — maybe it will be quick.

They called my name. Not bad — only about 45 minutes.

A hippie, peaceful-looking doctor with gray hair and blue eyes walked into the examining room. He laid out the chemo plans, like a syllabus for the semester.

“Not bad,” I said. My oncologist laughed, and gave me a funny look. He saw my lack of fear. And he introduced me to another patient, who was in remission.

I’m nowhere near remission. Most of my senses — sight, sound, taste, touch — are gone, buried beneath many painkillers and my mostly-covered head.

But every other week, I’m back in this waiting room, on alert, as if on call, as doctors are every day.

I see familiar faces and new ones, the new ones looking just like mine did on my first day. I also see people throwing up, and bald, grey, tired people, loss of life in their eyes.

I meet a guy with a similar brain tumor situation. We compare our surgery scars. We compare other things that occur to us. Attitude still has to keep on rising around life.

We’re all competing. Will I get my chemo fast, or have to wait for hours in a full waiting room? Do I have a fast nurse, or is she a bumbler? Is the IV needle–nurse going to be good, or to have no clue of how to find my vein, and give me a bruise?

I can see cancer as just a cross to carry, or to briefly battle. I think about all of this while I’m waiting. So I always hope the wait will be short.

Again I find strength in myself. Each time chemo is finished and the waiting room waits as well, I feel I’m receiving an angel’s guidance.

 

Their own Sankofa

200711_interact2.jpgGhana woos its black diaspora.

 

When most Americans start looking for their roots, they probably begin by leafing through family photographs or talking with family members. But black Americans are reefed intricately between a montage of history books and countless unanswered questions.

As a descendent of African slaves and white Europeans, the disconnect of my roots comes full circle on the sand where I’m standing now: in Elmina, Ghana. I’m sweating, thinking of ancestors who 400 years ago were so violently deracinated from their homes and scattered around the world. Anger and sadness play tug-of-war for my unknown relatives in Cuba, Haiti, and Brazil.

But the winds of the Atlantic comfort me. I exhale, and release all the horror of past transgressions. It is only through this journey home that I can find peace. It’s my own Sankofa. That’s the word in the local Twi language for going back to your roots.

African Americans like me pilgrimage to Africa each year, hoping to bring closure to our tumultuous past. So many tourists and new permanent residents have arrived that Ghana has developed special outlets to welcome us.
“Our people really have no clue as to what Africa really has to offer,” said Jerome Thompson, 64, president of Ghana’s African-American Association. Johnson, who once lived in Fort Washington, Maryland, said he decided to move to Ghana after he discovered, during visits with his church, how culturally rich the country was. “If African Americans come over with their knowledge, patience, expertise, and work together with the Ghanaians, there’s nothing that they won’t be able to obtain here that they couldn’t do in America,” he added.

Noticing the diaspora connection with Africa, Ghana’s Ministry of Tourism and Diaspora Relations created the Joseph Project to build upon pan-African foundations in the spirit of American civil rights leader W.E.B. DuBois, who took Ghanaian citizenship, and Ghana’s independence leader and first president, Kwame Nkrumah. The project’s primary goal is to celebrate Ghana’s 50 years of independence, and to use 400 years of slave trade, colonial exploitation, and cultural economic strife as a springboard for Africa to reunite with the African diaspora.

“The diasporans are such an important part of African development,” said E.V. Hagan, the tourism ministry’s director of research statistics. “The Joseph Project is the perfect outlet for diasporans and Africans to reconcile their pasts to build a positive future.”

Capitalizing on Ghana’s appeal to African Americans also seems a perfect vehicle for promoting economic development. Some 5,000 African Americans are said to be living in Ghana.

“The AU [African Union] fervently wants to make the Diaspora a sixth region of Africa,” said Dr. Erieka Bennett, founder of the new Diaspora African Forum in Accra.

There are even plans to introduce a diasporan visa, a lifetime visa for those with African roots.
The beautiful plush landscape and black cosmopolitan feel of Accra seems to make the transition easier. And the Ghanaian community embraces the diasporans warmly.

“I feel elated that my brothers and sisters are coming back to Africa,” said Eric Nortey, 30, a Ghanaian who lives in Accra. “Black Americans are my favorites. They are intermediates between black and white. They are finally coming back to build upon the civilization that they were stolen from.”

Despite 400 years of slave trade, 210 million African lives lost, and a complete disconnect from cultural identity, the African spirit has proven resilient. As I peer into the night sky and reflect upon my experience here, something in the distance catches my eye. It’s a curious celestial phenomenon, on a canvas of green, yellow, and red: the Black Star of Ghana. The star is a symbol of hope and life — perhaps a sign to diasporans of our connection to our beautiful Mother Afrika.

 

Laying down arms to fight for peace

A conversation with Ashraf Khader, a Palestinian fighter turned peace activist.200711_activists.jpg

  

Ashraf Khader’s group, Combatants for Peace, brings Israeli military veterans and former Palestinian fighters — people who have actively fought against each other — together to advocate peace.

“After brandishing weapons for so many years, and having seen one another only through weapon sights, we have decided to put down our guns and to fight for peace,” reads the group’s mission statement.

Combatants for Peace organizes meetings between former fighters of each side of the conflict, protects threatened communities, and presses the Palestinian and Israeli governments to stop the cycle of violence.                   

Khader discusses the difficulties of renouncing violence in a land plagued by armed conflict, how inciting violence led him to fight for peace, and his group’s hope for a politics without militarization.

Interviewer: Anja Tranovich
Interviewee: Ashraf Khader

You’ve personally fought against Israelis in the struggle for Palestinian liberation. What did you do?
 
Like many Palestinians living in the West Bank, I threw stones and then Molotov cocktails. I also took part in organizing protests and recruiting people to resist the occupation. Once, the Israeli army caught me and forced me to clean a very long road under the threat of their guns.

But I don’t want to talk about what I did in the past, because I don’t believe in violence anymore.

Really, you have to understand that in the first intifada, just raising the Palestinian flag could lead to one year in prison. Despair causes many Palestinians to forget nonviolence and revert to armed conflict, with the belief that this will make their voices heard. Some are filled with hate for the Israelis as a result of a lost family member or friend to violence or prison.

Once this is understood, it is easier to analyze hatred, prejudice, and despair. These sentiments grow out of a lack of understanding that there is a real partner for peace on the ground — one that is not represented by either government.

Part of Combatants for Peace’s mission statement is that “We no longer believe that the conflict can be resolved through violence.” What changed your perspective — from being involved in the violence to thinking the conflict can’t be resolved through violence?

Though members of Combatants for Peace paid a high price for their violent activities, both physically and emotionally, they did not witness any change on the ground. The occupation continues, the societies remain polarized, and we realized that we were a part of this cycle rather than part of the solution. Throughout the world, this may seem perfectly logical, but within the context of Israel and Palestine, it is revolutionary.

 
How did the group begin?

The group began when a group of Israeli soldiers, who refused to serve in the Occupied Territories (refuseniks), and a group of Palestinians, who had served prison sentences in Israel, began speaking about a peaceful solution based on nonviolence and dialogue.

It started in 2004, but remained largely underground until our public launching in March of 2006.

The organization has a membership that fluctuates between 150 and 170 members from each side, Israeli and Palestinian. These members are governed by a 14-member steering committee that is also composed of equal numbers of Israelis and Palestinians who meet in our central office in Al Ram [Israel].

There are plans right now to expand our presence on the ground by creating a number of smaller groups that are geographically distributed in the north [Tulkarm-Tel Aviv], the middle [Ramallah-Jerusalem], and the south [Beersheva-South Mount Hebron]. These smaller, more autonomous groups will meet to decide their actions on a local level before sending coordinators to the steering committee for approval. We envision these groups becoming small, tightly knit, autonomous units, able to understand and react to the particular conditions in their area.

This allows us to expand our presence and visibility, but will also make it much easier for Palestinians especially to attend events in the face of movement restrictions.


Do you work with other groups?

 
Ta’aeosh [coexistence] is one organization we work with, but we are hoping to expand our cooperation as well; our garden project also has many more partners.

In general, Combatants have worked with communities rather than organizations. This weekend, for example, we are assisting Palestinian farmers in Tulkarm and Hebron with the olive harvest, and protecting them from radical settlers who often attack during this time.


How will you protect them from radical settlers who might attack? Do you go armed?

We don’t use violence in any way. We bring Israeli peace activists, media, and international activists with cameras to prevent the settlers and the army from [starting a] conflict.

[Abir Aramin, the 10-year-old daughter of] one of the founders of Combatants for Peace, Bassam Armin, was recently shot by Israeli solders close to her school in Anata. Combatants aligned with other groups and began a project to build a playground in Anata where children can play safely. The killing was a sad testament to the need for groups like Combatants for Peace.

How is fundraising going for the Abir Aramin’s playground project?

We are making progress in our first stage of funding, but are very far off from the second, much larger stage.
 

What do other veterans of the conflict think of Combatants for Peace?

Combatants is a volunteer-based, grassroots organization that depends upon the commitment of our members. This commitment is continually tested by our communities and those who believe that peace is not possible. Members are accused of being naïve, collaborators, or worse, yet we choose to continue anyway. We are able to do so by the overwhelming moral support we receive from the international community that helps to reaffirm our position and assure us that we are not alone.

Is it hard for supporters of either side of the conflict to support or advance a politics without militarization?

It is hard to fight against the perception that there are no partners for peace. Yet our existence is proof that this claim is wrong. Without proving this, there is no reason to believe that peace without militarization is possible. The more our message is spread, the easier our job of convincing people otherwise becomes.


What do you hope will happen in the next five or 10 years in Israel and Palestine?

 
The end of the conflict based upon a just, secure, and mutually agreed upon solution that is in accordance with international laws and norms … and we hope this happens sooner than five to 10 years down the road.

 

A long road home

LongRoadHome_0012.jpgBraving the border.

Tired of working small jobs that barely afford enough financial support for her own mother and three children, Pathe Nataren, 35, and her two younger cousins, Sharon, 18, and Marjorie Reyes, 10, embark on a journey from San Pedro Sulas, Honduras, to reunite with Sharon and Marjories mother in Los Angeles.

Four years ago, Sharon and Marjories father was murdered for his days wages upon returning home from his tienda, or store. Unable to maintain the store, the family sold it, and the sisters mother decided to migrate north to California in search of higher paying work.

In following their mothers footsteps, the sisters left Honduras by bus for Guatemala, and later paid a driver to continue the journey to the Suchiate River, which is the porous border between Mexico and Guatemala.

During the ride, Pathe asked to use the drivers cell phone to call the sisters mother in California. An innocent phone call ended up robbing the sisters of almost all their money; the driver extorted them by demanding the mother wire him more money.

Sharon, Marjorie, and Pathe were frightened and nearly broke when they arrived in Tecun Uman, at the Mexico-Guatemala border along the Suchiate River. The three women found their way to Casa del Migrante, a popular migrant safe house in Tecun Uman that allows three free nights of accommodation and food.

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In search of the Paris of the East

200710_ttlg3.jpgLiving with war in Beirut.

 

In Beirut, some things never change. Legend has it that a nightclub near downtown stayed open during last summer’s war between Israel and Hizbullah, with DJs even turning up the bass to drown out the thump of falling bombs. Despite civil war and invasion, Beirut still tries to be, as it once was, the Paris of the East.

Crowded, smoke-filled cafes and haute couture fashion line the streets of Beirut’s ritzy Hamra district. Stroll down rue Hamra in the evening, and watch women in stilettos and miniskirts walk with young men in tight jeans and popped collars out on the town. Many head to the Gemmayzeh, Beirut’s nightlife district, for an evening of booze, drugs, and sex. Most like to party in the newer rooftop clubs, away from car bombs and other street-level annoyances.

You can forget you are in the Middle East at times — women in lingerie stare seductively from large back-lit ads, and young couples neck in the corners of cozy bar-lounges. It was this douceur de vivre, or sweetness of life, that drew the well-off from all corners of the Arab world and from Europe to come dance, drink, and rave with the Lebanese when the bombs weren’t falling.

If this terrace-level Beirut seems frozen in time, then so too do the streets below, but for different reasons. Away from Hamra’s lingerie models and cafes there lies a very different Beirut. Most of the city has yet to fully recover from last summer’s war and the Hizbullah-backed general strike of early 2007.

Like a fly in amber, Beirut’s twisting streets and narrow alleys feel stuck in 1974, the year before Lebanon’s brutal 15-year civil war began. Everywhere, young men in urban camo-wear and berets clutch Kalashnikovs and patrol the streets. The military has erected checkpoints throughout the country, and the slightest provocation can lead to assault or arrest.

On the road from the airport, billboards displaying a smiling woman with long, uncovered hair inform visitors that the city’s reconstruction from last year’s war was made possible thanks to Iran. The road north to Tripoli is flanked by billboards showing soldiers planting the Lebanese colors atop smoldering ruins, set in an Iwo Jima moment, beckoning the highway traffic to support the army’s assault on the Palestinian refugee camp Nahr al-Bared.

The Solidere, a downtown area lavishly reconstructed by assassinated Prime Minister Rafiq Hariri, used to draw rich Gulf families — men with white robes and enormous bellies, with their wives and children in tow. Today’s Solidere lies empty, with its restaurants scaled back to lunch-only menus, and the splendid Place de l’Etoile is devoid of life but for the nearby tents of Hizbullah supporters.

My Lebanese friends throw their hands in the air when I ask about the situation here.

“What can I say,” Munir replies, exasperated. “This country is hopeless.”

Munir and his friends, too young to remember the civil war, nonetheless had their own dose of destruction and hopelessness when they lived through last summer’s Israeli invasion. And they watch as the country slowly becomes repolarized along sectarian lines, a hallmark of the 15 years of civil war.

When the equivalent of 1,000 kg of explosives tore a chunk off St. George’s Hotel in West Beirut in early 2005, taking Prime Minister Hariri’s life, the fault lines of division deepened. Later that year, on March 14th, over one million Lebanese took to the streets, demanding an end to Syria’s near 30-year presence in the country. Syrian forces left by the end of the following month, but Syria remains to many the éminence grise of Lebanon.

Mainstream Sunni politicians, some Christian groups (led by the right-wing Phalange Party, which was behind the massacres of the Sabra and Chatilia refugee camps in 1982), and other prominent business and political leaders formed the March 14th Alliance to protest Syria’s continued influence in Lebanese affairs and to promote pro-Western policies.

On the other side of the divide are masses of poor Shi’a, who are given organizational expression through Syria-friendly Hizbullah and other related groups. So Syria remains the bugbear that covers the real divisions in Lebanese society — divisions between the rich and the poor, between the terraces and strobe lights of the Gemmayzeh and the dense, packed warren called the Dahiyeh.

Munir took me to the Dahiyeh, the poor, predominantly Shi’a suburb in the south of Beirut, which bore the brunt of the bombing last year. Today one can find young armed men directing traffic, and posters of Ayatollah Khomeini and Hizbullah leaders covering the walls.

Just a year ago, however, the Dahiyeh was a mass of crumbled concrete and collapsed bridges, a city destroyed by Israeli weaponry. Hizbullah has since rebuilt some of these southern suburbs as well as a good portion of southern Lebanon. Most Dahiyeh residents are poor and working-class, and most have never even been to the Gemmayzeh. Here, in Hizbullah country, the promises of leaders in business suits, in capitals both near and far, mean little.

“We don’t want Bush here,” one resident tells me. “And we don’t want [the] March 14 [Alliance] here either. They are controlled by Bush. We just want to be left alone.” He adds, “But they will never leave Lebanon alone.”

Pessimism springs eternal in Beirut. When Irish peace activists visited recently to give a history of the conflict in Northern Ireland, they spoke of the horrors of their own civil war and of the ways in which ordinary Catholics and Protestants overcame the sectarian divide in just 10 years. But this meant little to my Beiruti friends.

“Do you know where we will be in 10 years?” Foutemeh asked, a bit annoyed. “We will be in the middle of a civil war, that’s where.”

Some manage to bring a sardonic edge to their cynicism. En route to the Sabra camp, my taxi driver explains, “I feel strange when there is no war, no sound of gunfire. I grew up in war; bullets remind me of my childhood — they make me happy.” He adds, after a moment’s reflection, “I’m sure I will be reminded of my childhood again, soon. Here in Lebanon, all we know is war.”

When the threat of war is everywhere, it is easy to become inured to it. Groups of armed men wielding machine guns or lounging on the swivel seats of armored personnel carriers are no longer surprising or even bothersome. When a series of loud explosions interrupts my conversation with Foutemeh, she looks up lazily and says, “It is probably a bomb.”

It isn’t — the multicolored night sky attests to a firework display somewhere off in the distance. But there has been a series of explosions and assassinations in the past few months, including two high-profile attacks on parliament members. And the northern Palestinian refugee camp of Nahr al-Bared lies in ruins, much like the Dahiyeh after last year’s war.

The election to replace the assassinated MPs has just concluded, and dozens of young men on motorcycles holding huge flags with a stylized cedar tree emblazoned across the front — the Phalange Party emblem — are honking their horns and chanting loudly. 

Nearby at the Metrobar, a trendy dive with soft red lighting and ’80s music, my Lebanese friends try to teach me the Debke, a traditional Lebanese folk dance. It’s quite difficult: you must move your feet to complex, syncopated rhythms while dancing around in a circle. But they are patient with me.

Every once in a while, we break from the dancing to nibble on some tabouleh and hommos, while Saseen and Hamid break into song, usually funeral dirges for fallen Hizbullah soldiers.

“We Lebanese know funerals better than anyone else,” Hamid explains, with a smirk.

The waiter arrives with a round of tequila shots, and Hamid raises his glass, with tongue firmly in cheek, to martyrdom. “To martyrdom!” we cry in unison before swallowing the cheap Texas spirit that burns all the way down. We drink late into the night. 

Outside, at dawn, Hamra streets are quiet. As the muezzin welcomes the morning with a tuneful call to prayer, a flatbed truck full of armed men trundles by. The morning headlines of the Daily Star exalt the bomb-free election of the day before.

I watch the sunrise with a young couple from Italy.

“This city is dead,” the woman complains. “We’ve been going to the Gemmayzeh the last few nights, but there isn’t much else going on here.”

They walk off, past a pair of disinterested soldiers, toward their hotel nearby. Like the few other tourists here, they came looking for the Paris of the East. They instead found Beirut.

 

Making lemonade

200710_offtheshelf.jpgA young woman makes the most of her confusion in Andrea Levy’s Fruit of the Lemon.

 

Andrea Levy’s warm and loving literary postcard from Jamaica presents a long, diverse, and dynamic family history — a vivid blend of personalities, nationalities, and even prejudices, without being judgmental. The challenges of straddling two cultures can be readily found in modern fiction, but in Levy’s capable and empathetic hands (Levy herself is the daughter of Jamaican immigrants), the insulated story of the Jackson family — as told in Levy’s novel Fruit of the Lemon — has a timeless quality that makes this 1999 novel worthy of its new Picador reissue, and a recommended read of the Essence magazine book club.
 
All parents dream of a life for their child that’s better than their own. Jamaican immigrants Mildred and Wade Jackson are no different, wishing only the best for their daughter, Faith. So after moving to London, Faith’s parents remained tight-lipped about their hometown, leaving their daughter to wonder about being teased at school: “Faith’s a darkie and her mum and dad came on a banana boat.”
 
“It was a proper boat with cabins and everything,” says her mother. “Even had a dance every evening and we took turns to sit at the captain’s table. What, you think we sit among the bananas?” But Faith’s notions of her family’s past remain sketchy — stitched-together bits and pieces she gleans from offhand comments over the years. It isn’t until she begins her professional career in television, moves out of the cocoon of her parents’ home, and her mother and father begin to speak of going “home” to Jamaica, that Faith’s identity and self-awareness are shaken to the very core.

At the same time, experiences arise that open Faith’s eyes to the existence of racism: Despite getting a promotion at work, she’s still effectively held back; a white woman she and her brother go to see about a used car behaves as if they’re about to rob her; a terrible incident of urban violence highlights the differences between her and her white friends. These events begin to unmoor Faith from all she had grown to believe about herself and her identity.

Desperate to rescue their daughter from an emotional tailspin, Faith’s parents decide to send her to Jamaica for a visit with her maternal aunt Coral. Thus, Faith begins her journey completely unaware of her Jamaican heritage, blinded by her own assumptions and stereotypes about life on the Caribbean island. Once there, through the storytelling of her relatives, she learns of her parents’ rich social, cultural, and economic heritage, and of her extensive family tree æ men and women who loved in the face of racial and class prejudice, lived under the shadow of harsh economic conditions, and yet still prized family above all. She begins to develop, for the first time, her own ethnic and cultural identity.

Elements of Faith’s sudden revelations feel a bit unbelievable. Though in England she carries on a longtime friendship with a woman whose father is blatantly racist, she maintains an implausible lack of awareness about prejudice until her arrival in Jamaica. But Levy, whose novel Small Island won the Whitbread Book of the Year Award and the Orange Prize, shows obvious skill in building a moving narrative that is sentimental without being saccharine. Throughout the novel, she deftly captures the speech patterns and styles of her British and Jamaican characters, and wisely avoids caricature and stereotype, imbuing Faith’s family and friends with staunch individuality in thought, word, and deed.
 
The structure of the book is particularly effective: Family legends and stories are threaded throughout Faith’s narrative, with each new tale accompanied by an ever-expanding family tree diagram that incorporates the previous story. The initial tale of Mildred and Wade is thin and spare, but as Faith learns more about her family history, the tales become more dramatic and lively, visually and thematically infusing the family with life.

As her visit to Jamaica comes to an end, Faith is finally open to incorporating her Jamaican culture into her English identity. “Let them say what they like. Because I am the bastard child of Empire and I will have my day.” In the end, neither her Jamaican heritage nor her Englishness is completely subsumed by the other. Proud to draw upon the strength of her Jamaican roots, Faith returns to England triumphant, the roots of the lemon tree holding firmly while the new branches reach ever upward, distant blooms bearing fruit.

 

What I learned in a Ghanaian shack

200710_ghanaian.jpgI didn’t expect to work while studying abroad. Then the sign in the window drew me in.

 

“You are invited to a mini party,” a man said as he poured a Malta Guinness into his glass. His laugh filled the afternoon shade. “Would you like to share a drink?”

I lifted my eyes from the Scrabble game. The words “hip,” “scare,” and “rum” dissolved from my thoughts as I carried my attention away from the board to the customer who had taken a seat with a newspaper.

It was my first day working in a neighborhood snack shack in Accra, the capital of Ghana, and I’d already been invited out. I found my job when the window of our passing van framed a tiny store called First Choice Enterprise, and a sign that read “Sales Girl Wanted.” As a study abroad student from New York City, I didn’t expect to have a job, but my plan suddenly changed when those bright white letters called out to me.

Accra’s streets are clogged with Ghanaians selling all kinds of tiny goods. Women carry tins of groundnuts, baskets of tomatoes, and bins of drinking water on their heads, as they weave in and out of traffic. Men yell, “Sunglasses, good price!” Coins pass from hands of buyer to seller through the windows of cars, taxis, and the minivans known as tro-tros. If those hands are lucky, they collect more than the average of $7.40 per day. Given that economic situation, and the high unemployment here, I decided to volunteer.

In the shack, business was quieter and more casual. We passed the mornings appreciating the goodness of each other’s company, interrupted occasionally by a sale.

All the noise and action of Ghana’s small commerce can be deceptive. Ghanaians know how to peddle a meat pie, but they also know how to just be. They know how to sit with their own thoughts, to laugh, to take the time to enjoy a biscuit, or to sip a malt with the passing of the afternoon sun. They do not rush, because they do not look at their day as a series of time slots to be filled with blocks of activity. There is always time to slow down for a friend, or share lunch with a passing stranger.

I was taken on by Auntie Mary and Uncle Felix, whose titles are a sign of respect. I, too, acquired a special Ghanaian name.
“My name is Adjua,” I would say when I shook a customer’s hand.

“Ah … you were born on a Monday!” was the usual reply. Children in Ghana are named after the day of the week on which they were born.

During my second week of work, I spent Sunday morning at church with Doris, the other salesgirl, whose friend translated the three-and-a-half hour service into English from Ga, one of several local languages.

“I would like to welcome you to the service this morning,” the pastor said to me in the middle of his sermon. Smiles, laughter, and a few stray claps filled the outdoor space.

That afternoon, Auntie Mary and her family invited me to the beach, where we sat for hours feeling the silky breeze brush off the waves of the Gulf of Guinea.

“I am going to take a picture of you carrying crates,” Auntie Mary’s brother said. “It is all I need in life.” He laughed. It seemed as though I was no longer the tourist.

The following evening, Doris took me to her home, where I met her four siblings and her mother, who sells tomatoes, pickled eggs, and yams at a local stand. Doris was earning less than the roughly $2-per-day minimum wage, a common situation here.

Doris’s youngest sister showed her friendship by putting her hand in mine as we walked along the dirt road, lit only by the kerosene lamps of merchants selling smoked fish and grilled corn. Welcoming me into their home, her family accepted me into their lives and showed me what it means to be Ghanaian. The next morning, as the hazy sun found its place in the African sky, Doris and I returned to work, and prepared baskets of biscuits and crates of Coke for customers who would stumble across the shack — maybe inviting us to another mini party.

 

Peace at last, but homecoming brings anger

200710_identify2.jpgReturning Burundis face land clashes.

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Virginie Ntakarutimana wears a faded black suit jacket that hides scars she got when armed Tutsi soldiers raided her house on October 27, 1993, and slashed her with a machete.

The soldiers killed many Hutus that night, including 15 of her relatives, and forced her to flee to Tanzania.

After years in exile, she became one of the first of her family to return home to Ruyigi, an up-country village of unpaved roads in eastern Burundi. But upon arrival, she discovered that her land had been sold. And though her country is on the verge of peace, it’s the first time in her life she’s felt like killing another person, she said.

“The war is not finished,” she said. “I could bring machetes or weapons to beat them or kill them. I feel a spirit of war in myself, because we are neighbors but we can’t live peacefully with each other.”

As tens of thousands of refugees migrate back to Burundi, many are finding that neighbors and others displaced by the war have moved onto their land. The land clashes are raising concerns among aid workers and human rights organizations that the massive influx of refugees will spark renewed violence in a politically and economically unstable postwar country, where land is in short supply.

“Land issues are probably the main issues in Burundi,” said Eduardo Garcia Rolland, a protection advocacy adviser for the Norwegian Refugee Council in Burundi. “Most are coming back to find their land occupied by someone else — or someone else has sold the land, or the administration has confiscated the land.”

Burundi — a small, poor, East African country roughly the size of Maryland — is recovering from 13 years of war that left more than 300,000 people dead, displaced 117,000 internally, and forced 450,000 to flee abroad, mostly to Tanzania. 

But the absence of fighting and a successful multiparty election have raised hopes for peace. Refugee organizations say they expect hundreds of thousands of people will return home to Burundi by the end of the year. In the last five years, 350,000 refugees have already returned.

As an incentive for refugees to return home, the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR), the U.N. refugee agency, in July began giving $50 to returnees upon arrival in addition to other assistance already given — namely, household items plus a four-month’s food ration.

UNHCR reports that more than 8,000 refugees have returned home to Burundi since that time, and they plan to further repatriate more than 50,000 by the end of the year.

Faced with land disputes, many returnees are seeking recourse through the courts. The cases often pit neighbor against neighbor, families against friends.

Terence Nahimana, founder of Cercle d’initiative pour une vision commune (CIVIC), a conflict resolution organization which has held repatriation seminars at refugee camps in Tanzania, believes Burundi has enough land for all its 8.5 million citizens, most of whom depend on the land for subsistence farming.

But he expressed concern that Burundi’s judicial system does not have the resources or the appropriate laws on the books to deal with the returning refugees and the resulting land disputes.

“Land in Burundi is the main asset for everybody,” Nahimana said. “But the problem in this country is that there is no actual policy for repatriation.”

The lack of documentation and property deeds further complicate land disputes.

Denise Ntwawunda fled to Tanzania with her husband and nine children in the mid-1990s, only to return and become embroiled in a land dispute.

“The land is inherited,” she said. “But we don’t have any documents. It’s been our family’s land for generations. My father and my grandfather all lived on the land.”

Virginie Ntakarutimana, who still bears scars and feels at war with her neighbors, says she has all the proper records, as she rifles through piles of yellowing paperwork.

“I have documents that testify that the land is mine,” she said, clutching her passport photographs along with documents verifying her Burundi citizenship. “I prefer to get my land peacefully, but nothing is done.”

Ntakarutimana said she needs the land so she can feed herself and her children. She has AIDS and needs to eat before she takes her antiretroviral medication. 

In Tanzania, she worked as a cleaner and then as a social worker counseling pregnant women in refugee camps. Now she can’t find a job.

Her anger and despair have left her wondering whether she should have left Tanzania. She has nowhere else to go now.

“I am happy I am back in my country, but I’ve wasted a lot of time seeking justice for my stolen land,” Ntakarutimana said. “In Tanzania, I could get food. Here, I don’t have peace in my heart. I don’t have peace in my heart.”

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