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The anti-pleasure principle

On the scorecard of sins, Lust usually gets top billing. But what about the others?

Perhaps the Grand Old Party (GOP) should change its name to the Party of Galatians (POG). After all, verses in that book of the Bible outline the crux of the modern day Republican ethos: “Walk in the Spirit, and ye shall not fulfill the lust of the flesh. For the flesh lusteth against the Spirit, and the Spirit against the flesh: and these are contrary the one to the other: so that ye cannot do the things that ye would” (Galatians 5:16-17).

The Christian Right, the Bush administration, and its acolytes have been trying to fight sins of the flesh for decades. Under Dubya, today’s Republicans have successfully defined morality solely in terms of sexual attitudes. As the movement continues to splinter over issues like uncontrolled spending and the legality of wiretapping Americans, one reliable bugaboo never fails to galvanize the right: Lust, defined as “unlawful craving for pleasures of the body.”

A controversial speaker at an event for Texas Governor Rick Perry caught the attention of The New York Times. Columbus, Ohio senior pastor and “Silent No More” author Rod Parsley said that Christians would not cave to requests for legalization of gay marriage because “we are not to sacrifice our children on the altar of sexual lust of a few.”

Similarly, Billy Graham’s son, Franklin, said that New Orleans — the City of Sin — was rightfully in the Lord’s crosshairs for a hurricane disaster because of its libertine mores. “This is one wicked city, okay? It’s known for Mardi Gras. It’s known for sex perversion,” Franklin Graham said. His rant also included references to the Big Easy’s “Satan worship” (aka Santeria) and laissez-faire attitude toward drug use.

Whether it’s the recent Senate porn hearings held by Kansas Republican Sam Brownback or the reliably loopy Senator Rick Santorum’s equating same-sex marriage with dog-shagging, calls to action taken under the aegis of Christian values have meant calls to thwart non-Church-sanctioned petits morts.

In pursuing sins of the flesh with such a vengeance, the modern GOP-Christian Right amalgam has taken on just one-seventh of the biblical battle against sin. Lust prevention occupies much of the Right’s time and efforts, often trumping niggling questions of health policy and common sense. Last year, conservatives stated their intention to block mandatory vaccinations of young girls against HPV, a sexually transmitted disease that can lead to the development of cervical cancer. Why? They feared that newly protected girls may (as a spokeswoman for the Family Research Council said) “see it as a license to engage in premarital sex.” For all the fervor surrounding Lust, the GOP seems downright lackadaisical when it comes to curtailing the remaining deadly sins: Avarice, Sloth, Gluttony, Envy, Wrath, and Pride.

As one of its calling cards, Republicans.org touts Proverbs 14:34: “Righteousness exalts a nation, but sin is a reproach to any people.” Perhaps it’s time to take a close look at the other six sins. Scattered throughout the book of Proverbs, the seven deadly sins have evolved into shorthand for the basic tenets of Christian thought. The big guns of Christian theology — Pope Gregory the Great, Thomas Aquinas, Milton, Dante — have referenced them for centuries. When he first cobbled together the sin scorecard, Gregory himself deemed Lust the least serious of the transgressions.

Avarice

Ranked as a sin more grave than Lust, Pope Gregory’s list named Avarice — the insatiable desire for wealth. The greedy have been called upon to answer for their lapses, thanks most recently to lobbyist Jack Abramoff. Christian Coalition founder and Georgia gubernatorial candidate Ralph Reed’s ambitions have been thwarted by his Abramoff ties, with a Christian Coalition member telling The Washington Post, “it became pretty obvious [Reed] was putting money before God.” Concurrently, the Securities and Exchange Commission’s probe into Senate Majority Leader Bill Frist’s stock sales, Tom DeLay’s charges of money laundering and conspiracy, or California Republican Representative Randy “Duke” Cunningham’s tearful apology for his long-running bribery scheme, demonstrate the need to tend to this particular sin. But while the investigations into these Republican Party members continue, so does a party-wide commission of what beliefnet.org’s Phyllis Tickle called “The Mother of All Sins.”

Quoting former Federal Reserve Chairman Alan Greenspan, Tickle said that to blame “infectious greed” for the rash of corporate scandals associated with Enron and Tyco “feels a bit like a betrayal. We’d been told all along that greed — well harnessed and regulated — was good, not only for corporations, but society as a whole, even the poor.” Indeed, the Bush administration takes that tack when promoting the elimination of the estate tax, higher standards for filing bankruptcy, and tax cuts for Americans in the top 1 percent income bracket. Nearly five months after Hurricane Katrina, Gordon Gekko’s Wall Street mantra “Greed is good” isn’t as popular as it once was.  

Sloth

Affected residents of the U.S. Gulf Coast were not just victims of great rains, but of another Republican sin — Sloth. This sin might appear to be the biggest anathema to today’s GOP members, who have long prided themselves on the “hand up, not hand out” meme and who extol the virtues of hard work and entrepreneurship. They seemed to follow the advice found in Romans: “Never flag in zeal, be aglow with the Spirit, serve the Lord.” Then came a certain former commissioner for the International Arabian Horse Association, and their sin was revealed.

Few would argue that saving the residents of New Orleans from the storm would qualify as God’s work, and Michael Brown’s less-than-zealous attitude toward his job as head of the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) became apparent within hours of the hurricane’s deadly landing in New Orleans, Mississippi, and Alabama.

Brown, a Bush crony with questionable emergency management qualifications when appointed to the post, penned some telling emails while the storm was at its height. According to CNN, some of those missives included, “Can I quit now? Can I come home?” the morning of the hurricane, as well as questions to his aide about what to wear when appearing on television. “Tie or not for tonight? Button-down blue shirt?” he asked. The reply was “Please roll up the sleeves of your shirt, all shirts. Even the president rolled his sleeves to just below the elbow. In this [crisis] and on TV you just need to look more hard-working.”

Gluttony

FEMA’s inability to get food and water to Katrina victims puts the Republicans at risk of committing yet another transgression — Gluttony. Withholding food from the needy, after all, is part and parcel of the sin, which refers specifically to overindulgence of food and drink, and, more generally, to consuming more than one needs. In the realm of resources — oil, money, and the like — modern Republicans are hoarders of the first order. In Congress, Alaska Republican Don Young showed himself a glutton for federal dollars (and punishment) when he insisted on using $200 million in federal spending on his “bridge to nowhere,” connecting two communities with a combined population of only about 14,550. Despite entreaties from his fellow Congress members, and even some of his own constituents, Young would not relent when asked to forgo his project in favor of allocating the funds to hurricane victims. Today’s economic policies (see Avarice above) seem geared to keeping resources concentrated within a small group of … Republicans.

Envy

A while back, some characterized the Republican hatred of former President Bill Clinton as stemming from an obsession with the 40th president’s lifestyle. With his supposed in-your-face sexuality, his recreational drugs, his rock and/or roll, Clinton exemplified the longhaired hipitude that the Republicans despised precisely because they wished they had his job. The result of this GOP envy was a two-year, $40 million investigation and a Starr-penned book that, one could argue, read like the same soft-core porn the Republicans were trying to eradicate (see Lust).

Wrath

The doggedness involved in toppling Clinton was part of a phenomenon that’s grown exponentially since the days of impeachment — Republican anger. One sees it in the face of the aforementioned O’Reilly whenever he’s confronted with Mexican undocumented immigrants, or Bob Novak when he’s about to be asked about his role in the Valerie Plame case. Fox News traffics in a type of anger that is both frightening and, if they weren’t being paid quite so much, quite hilarious.  

On the topic of trying to get at the root of Islamic terrorism, Ann Coulter famously wrote:

“They hate us? We hate them. Americans don’t want to make Islamic fanatics love us. We want to make them die. There’s nothing like horrendous physical pain to quell angry fanatics. So sorry they’re angry — wait until they see American anger.”

Her response probably wouldn’t have sat too well with the apostle James who advised that “everyone should be quick to listen, slow to speak and slow to become angry, for man’s anger does not bring about the righteous life that God desires.”

Pride

Listening is not chief among current Republican priorities. The president’s inability to hear any voice other than his own has contributed to his commission of the sin of Pride. Most recently, the New Yorker’s Seymour Hersh has documented that the president’s current policy in Iraq is being guided not by information from his generals on the sandy ground, but by the belief that in five or 10 or 20 years, his mission into the desert will be deemed an unparalleled success, catapulting him into the annals of history as one of the nation’s greatest commanders-in-chief. “Mission Accomplished” was a boast (also a no-no according to Corinthians) that, ultimately, could not be backed up. And yet, here is America in the middle of an intractable war, which originated with a deadly presidential sin.

So, is Lust (Gregory’s least concern) the sin which has gotten the Republicans and America into its current state of disarray, or do the six other transgressions really deserve a closer look? The fourth book of James hints at an answer:

“What causes wars, and what causes fighting among you? Is it not your passions that are at war in your members? You desire and do not have; so you kill. And you covet and cannot obtain; so you fight and wage war.”

 

Slamming it

Ten years after the war, members of a Bosnian volleyball team are bound together by their wounds.

 

At the precipice of a hill on the outskirts of town sits a dark and smoky room. In the colossal shadow of the mosque across the street, the room seems Lilliputian, stuffed with haze and breathless afternoon sunlight. The men in the room — and there are only men, save for a female reporter — cluster around a table, where cards are falling, slip-slap, slip-slap, into mysterious and intricate patterns.

A man with a coarse suggestion of stubble and a slow grin circles the room with a grandiose and practiced air. He pours Turkish coffee into porcelain teacups, empties the loaded ashtrays, sweeps away vacant beer bottles and replaces them with full ones, sweating with frost. He appears out of place, alien. He’s the only man in the room with two working legs.

Every Tuesday and Thursday during practice season, a sitting volleyball team meets here, in this clubhouse of sorts. They are called “Fantomi” — the phantoms. They play cards, chain-smoke, and eventually head across the street to the mosque, where they practice in a basement-level gym. The slow-grinning man helps those in wheelchairs descend the short staircase to the pavement; those with prosthetic legs lend their hands too. There aren’t any elevators or wheelchair ramps here. Then it’s down another long set of stairs to the gym, where these men — some with only half-bodies — become both graceful and vicious, athletes exulting in near-superhuman feats.

This Tuesday, Nihad Radonja isn’t practicing with the rest of Fantomi. Coach Sevro Numanovic has temporarily suspended him for — well, he prefers not to say what for. Radonja, like most of his teammates, lost his legs during the war that consumed Bosnia-Herzegovina from 1992 to 1995. Widespread disabilities were caused in large part by the millions of landmines laid down on Bosnian soil, turning more than 10,000 soldiers and civilians into landmine victims. Radonja, like his teammates, comes to practice religiously, sweats buckets, plays like he means it. Like his teammates, Radonja wants nothing more than to kick ass on the volleyball court. You can tell it’s killing him not to play this week.

Relegated to the corner by his unnamed transgression, Radonja catapults himself out of his wheelchair like a bow-legged pelican lifting its massive wings into flight, dons a blue #4 jersey (respectfully turning his back to the lady) and lopes to the sidelines, where he begins batting — rather, slamming — a ball against the wall by himself.

Meanwhile, Radonja’s teammates in good standing with Coach Numanovic are immersed in various pre-game endeavors. Two men with one leg between them slap a ball back and forth; when they lose it, a wispy, boyish young man in a green #12 shirt limps around to retrieve it. His left leg ends abruptly at the ankle, rounded into a bulbous knob tied up in athletic tape. A few players stretch prone on the waxy floor, their shortened limbs splayed like sunning starfish. Coach Numanovic, in all his Buddha-belly glory, surveys the scene from his wheelchair, gnarling wooly eyebrows. He doesn’t look pleased: he’s going to give them one hell of a practice.

 

 

Searing anniversaries

In recent years, Bosnia has become a formidable presence in the sport of sitting volleyball, with over 30 clubs nationwide. The country took the gold at the 2004 Special Olympics in Athens, defeating four-time champion Iran; Fantomi won the European Cup that same year. Sitting volleyball, which was introduced in Holland in 1956 and became a Paralympic competition in 1980, is played in much the same way as standing volleyball (six players to a side, five sets of one game each, a two-point lead required to win), but on a smaller court with a lower net. At all times, the players must maintain direct contact between their pelvis and the ground. The action is fast and most of it happens 45 inches above the floor.

Tonight, Fantomi splits in two to scrimmage in preparation for the World Club Sitting Volleyball Championships one month away pitting Fantomi against former rival Iran as well as Hungary, Russia, Germany, and Croatia. But something more than competitive pride draws the players back to the gym twice a week: the camaraderie forged by loss.

“If we were not doing sport and training, we would stay closed in the house,” explains Ismet Godinjak, who, like most of his teammates, spoke through a translator. “We would be introverts. But now, we have a good time together. The main reason is to gather together and not think about what happened.”

What happened was the war, which claimed an estimated 200,000 people and left tens of thousands of Bosnians disabled. According to the Bosnia and Herzegovina Mine Action Centre (BHMAC), the number of communities affected by mines plus the level of impact on the population make Bosnia the most mine-affected country in the world. As of May 2004, there were still 18,319 minefields in the country, containing an estimated 260,751 anti-personnel mines, 51,447 anti-vehicle mines, and 3,635 unexploded explosive ordnances. Injuries sustained from stepping on these devices are horribly disfiguring.

With the exception of one young man with a birth defect, all of Fantomi’s members were disabled in the war. With unequivocal clarity, all remember the exact date they lost their limbs. For Godinjak, that date was June 8, 1994. He was in the woods, scouting the front lines, when he stepped on a mine. His friends carried him to the hospital, where his left leg was cut off below the knee. By that point, Godinjak says, “it was usual to see amputees and injured people, so it was not shocking when it happened to me. I saw women and children killed; many of my friends were killed. So I did not consider it a big tragedy.” He developed gangrene and the amputation had to be repeated three times.

Godinjak is one of the taller players on the team, and his disability is not readily apparent until he takes off his pants and unhooks his prosthetic leg. Once crouched on the floor, he maneuvers towards the center of the court by using the support of his right leg and the sinewy muscles of his arms. It looks like a dance, a surreal underwater choreography in which six feet of man are collapsed and rearranged. He says that being on the court makes him feel normal again.

“When you play sports, it lets you know that you are normal,” he explains. “In time, you must learn to accept yourself with your physical injury. You accept the fact that you are not different.” Godinjak plays out this resoluteness on the court, vehemently ka-WHACKing his palm against the ball, the warm salt of his sweat and breath soaking the air as the game heats up.

According to Danijel Hopic of Sarajevo’s Handicap International, an organization that works with landmine victims, playing sports can shatter perceptions — both community-wide and self-imposed — that serious, body-altering disabilities, such as those sustained by many Bosnians in the war, are permanently inhibiting. “When a person becomes disabled, he feels a gap within himself. He sees no sense in his life,” Hopic says. “But with sports, the environment can be adapted to the person’s disability. Society imposes standards on people with disabilities, but sports defy the rules. Sports are crashing those standards down.”

 

Ground rules

Another thing sitting volleyball is crashing down is the lingering animosity between Bosnia’s ethnic groups who fought aggressively against one another in the war. While Bosnians can be dismissive of lingering tensions between Muslims, Serbs, and Croats, such antagonism isn’t extinct. Much like the racist attitudes that persisted in the United States after the elimination of segregation against blacks, people in Bosnia often talk grandly of unity while harboring staid convictions against opposing ethnic groups. In response to a description of Fantomi as a “Muslim team,” Radonja quixotically replied, “here in Bosnia, we have no ethnicities, only good people and bad people.”

But the reality is that many sitting volleyball players likely fought against each other on the battlefield. Usually, however, members of rival teams (which are not formed by ethnicity but by location) talk about obliterating each other on the court with only a playful malice. They are bound by their collective trauma, and now by a sport that has eradicated even the slightest inclination to wallow.

Dzevad Hamzie, a member of Fantomi rival team SPID (Sportsko Invalida Drustvo, another Sarajevo-based club), confirms this unity across ethnic lines. “Being a member of a group that has the same problem as you, being hurt in the war, we had that understanding between each other,” he says. “No one feels sorry for each other because we do not need it. There is no need for sorrow or pity.” Hopic says this competitive motivation is what makes sports so healing: “It makes [the disabled] want to prove themselves, to fight to show everybody that they can do it. If I accept you as my opponent, I validate you as worthy to be my opponent. The cooperation of the team means that we are all equal, no one needs to help each other, you do not need to help me, and I can help you.”

Hamzie is another tall, lanky player who walks without a trace of a limp — you don’t know his left foot is missing until he folds his pant leg upward. He speaks through exhaled cigarette smoke about August 13, 1995, one month before the war ended, the day that he lost his foot by stepping on a mine. After more than 100 days in the hospital, he spent a year learning how to walk again. He began attending volleyball practices in 1996, after he saw a local television documentary about the sport. Public transportation was still down, so Hamzie had to walk for more than an hour to the center of the city for practice — now, he can do the walk in 20 minutes. “When you are practicing all the time,” he boasts proudly, “you do not need to go to the doctor.”

Although the prevalence of landmines during the war made amputees a common sight on the streets of Sarajevo, the process of normalizing these injuries and accommodating the disabled back into the community has been difficult. Many public places — including the gym in which Fantomi practices — are still not wheelchair accessible. In fact, this lag in public perception of the handicapped is paradoxical: As international nonprofits maintain less of a presence in Bosnia due to the improvement of the political climate, local nonprofits are becoming more essential to the integration of the disabled — the very places where cultural misperceptions of disability may persist. “We as a society still see the disabled as a burden,” Hopic says. “Their families need to carry them places, they always need someone with them.” Hopic sees the difficulty of being without any aid, playing with only the ground for a prop, as freeing: “But once they are released [onto] on the ground, everything on [that] ground becomes the ground rules.”

All of the sitting volleyball players talk about the emotional uplift brought on by a good game. Delalic Sabahudin, SPID’s captain, says that “doing a sport like this is like having a job: You travel, you meet people. Those who do not are passive … depressed. This sport makes you very involved. Home is only for sleeping.”

Sabahudin, too, talks of the day a grenade blew off his left leg — December 5, 1992 — and how playing sports enabled his rehabilitation, both physically and psychologically. “There is the aspect of gathering and hanging out, the training. It makes you forget one part of your disability. It does not make it disappear, but one part of it can be accepted,” he says. “There is a very large difference between people who do sports and who do not. Those who do not are psychologically unstable, they cannot deal with their problems, they are closed to society, they are introverted. They mostly stay at home, which also becomes an economical issue. Asking the state to pay for your injuries is like waiting for nothing. But sport lets you figure out how to solve existential problems.”

Worth less or more?

As for the men of Fantomi, their practice session is winding down, but Coach Numanovic relentlessly works them till the end. He glides down from his wheelchair to join the team, battling it out amid pools of sweat gleaming on the waxed floor. The guys are tired, but no less tenacious in their efforts. To catch their breath, they recline backward onto their arms, but they don’t rest very often. During set-ups, there is a hushed, expectant silence, punctuated by panting breath.

Godinjak makes his way back to the sidelines to gulp water and check on his elementary school-aged son, who has accompanied him to practice tonight. The boy has been playing with the exiled Radonja in the corner and retrieving wayward balls from his dad’s game, pitching them back to the servers with a serious look. He watches his father and tries to imitate his particularly stellar plays. Godinjak knows his son looks up to him, which is a reason why he brings him to these practices. “You can be a model for all people, not just injured people. It does not have to mean you are worth less than other people,” he says. In a country where the official unemployment rate is 44 percent, Godinjak, with full-time office work, is indeed better off than many. “Doing this gave me a totally normal existence,” he says, “I have a home, family, a job. I have earned more than many people I know who are not injured, who were worried about me and how I would deal and go through life.”

Now night is falling and it’s time for Fantomi to abandon the court. Most of the men head back to the clubhouse, back to the cigarettes and card games. But Radonja, fired up with untamed energy after an evening on the sidelines, offers the lady a ride home. Two of his teammates help him to his car; one lifts him out of his wheelchair and into the driver’s seat, the other collapses the chair and secures it in the trunk.

As he speeds down the mountain through chilled layers of air, windows cranked down, radio cranked up, Radonja talks about the main reason Fantomi has been so successful. “It’s because we have heart,” he says simply. He drops his guest safely at her residence and bids goodbye, vanishing into the night.

Three months later, in the world championships last September, the Bosnian team, which in 2004 had stolen what would have been its fifth consecutive Paralympic gold medal from Iran, lost to this archrival. In November, Fantomi made a comeback to win the Euro League gold.

 

Vanishing Heritage: Thailand

Best of In The Fray 2005. An up-close look at the ethnic minorities of China, Bolivia, and Thailand. Pulitzer Prize-winning photographer John Kaplan explores indigenous culture and the threat of industrialization on its preservation. Part three of a three-part series.

Click here to enter the visual essay.

The Akha society in Northern Thailand is in rapid transition, despite the good work of NGOs such as the Akha Heritage Foundation and DAPA. As electricity comes to each village in turn, its inhabitants begin to realize the homogenized and idealized life portrayed on satellite television. The young often choose to leave the simple village life behind, in search of work and the other lures of city life. At the present time, women, particularly the old, still wear traditional headdresses, but men and children no longer dress as their elders did even a decade ago, instead choosing the same practical, non-descript t-shirts and pants found anywhere in the world. I sought to document the traditional customs of the Akha Hill Tribe people, an ethnic minority who are losing their cultural identity.

Thailand was photographed in 2004, as part of an ongoing multi-year project. In 1998, I documented ethnic minority groups in Tibet and Southern China, and in 2000, I traveled to Bolivia to photograph the Aymara. I believe that it is of significant importance to document the traditions of indigenous cultures that are rapidly fading throughout the world. As a documentary photographer, it is my goal to document such traditions before they disappear, and it is my hope that viewers may consider assisting in their preservation.

Part 1: China

Part 2: Bolivia

For information on obtaining prints from the Vanishing Heritage series, please contact John Kaplan at kaplan-at-writeme-dot-com.

 

‘They didn’t make the rules, God did.’

Columns Editor Russell Cobb's radio story on This American Life details how parishioners are thrown when their pastor stops believing in hell.

ITF Columns Editor Russell Cobb makes his radio debut this weekend with an hour long piece on This American Life. He traces the mercurial career of Reverend Carlton Pearson, an evangelical preacher in Tulsa. The interview begins with Pearson recounting one of his early ministerial successes: driving the devil out of his then girlfriend at the tender age of 17. A man known for his charisma and sense of humor, Pearson later jokes in a sermon about him and his wife getting in a fight and each trying to drive the devil out of the other.

After growing up in a black ghetto in San Diego, Pearson later attended Oral Roberts University and was anointed by Oral Roberts as “my black son,” an appellation Roberts’ biological white son didn’t seem to enjoy. He went on to found Higher Dimensions, a surprisingly successful and racially integrated church, which at its peak was taking in 20,000 parishioners and half a million dollars every month. That was before Pearson became, in the words of his former followers, “a heretic.” Cobb lets the minister tell of his Road to Damascus moment in his own words. Essentially, he stopped believing in hell. And as one of a few pastors who remain loyal to Pearson afterwards explains, the belief in hell is a huge draw for churches. Stop believing in hell, he says, and you’ll have people — pastors like himself — out of a job.  

Cobb documents the inevitable fall. Some who leave Pearson’s church explain that while they don’t really like contemplating hell all the time, “they didn’t make the rules, God did.” Pearson, of course, disagrees, and brings a passionate eloquence to his new theory that all, even non-believers, have been saved. His “Theology of Inclusion” wins him some surprising new friends and foreclosure on his church building when he can’t make the mortgage payments. The story is compellingly told in Pearson’s rich tones and with Cobb’s own subtle humor. It is well worth hearing, even if you only catch the snippet in which a still-parishioner tells of the cost among her neighbors of remaining with the Reverend.

You can find “Heretics” broadcast the weekend of December 16-18, or can download it from This American Life in subsequent weeks.

 

Illuminating evil

Capturing the dark underbelly of humanity may well be what Pulitzer Prize-winning photographer John Kaplan does best. But why — and how — does he bear the weight of this heavy burden of proof?

Winner of BEST OF IMAGE (SO FAR) for “Life after torture”

Many magazines, InTheFray included, call their photographers, writers, and editors “contributors.” This was John Kaplan’s description when InTheFray published “Life after torture,” his photographic essay about victims of torture, last year. However, the word “contributor” extends beyond this one-time event to characterize what has driven Kaplan’s efforts over the past few decades.

“It comes from a psychological need to give something back,” Kaplan reflected. “I’ve gotten a lot of help along the way.” The 1989 Photographer of the Year began making pictures in his teens. “A group of extremely talented, yet giving people, were my mentors at a young age,” Kaplan said of the staff on his hometown newspaper in Wilmington, Delaware. Three of these photographers went on to work for National Geographic; two were awarded Photographer of the Year.  

He felt very lucky. “As I became successful in my career, I felt a real need to give something back, to give people a leg up on their own path,” said Kaplan. “It’s been an evolution for me.”

After graduating from Ohio University in 1982, Kaplan spent the next decade photographing, designing, and editing for newspapers. In 1990, he founded a journalism consulting firm called Media Alliance. “Basically that was an outgrowth of wanting to contribute to the profession,” he said. “The goal … wasn’t focused on the business itself. It was focused on the education.” Kaplan shared his design, editorial, and staff development expertise with newspapers throughout New England, the South, the Midwest, and Canada.

This venture led to his becoming a fulltime educator. After first teaching for the Syracuse University London Centre in 1993, and leading countless workshops and seminars, Kaplan, who wanted to become a professor, returned to his alma mater for graduate studies in the late 1990s. Now a faculty member of the University of Florida, he was named the College of Journalism and Communications Teacher of the Year in 2002 and, in 2005, the International Educator of the Year. Just three years before, the Academy of Educators in Journalism and Mass Communication voted him second place in the AEJMC Promising Professors Competition.

In 2003, Kaplan developed a third way to help other journalists: through writing. He noted that university and workshop students asked the same sorts of questions over and over: “What are top editors and photo buyers looking for?” The need for a book emerged. No one had written a book about compiling a portfolio since 1984. Kaplan’s Photo Portfolio Success addresses a variety of photographic genres and media of presentation.  Courses in several academic programs, such as the photojournalism sequence at the University of Missouri, use his book.

Through his teaching, Kaplan became involved with photographing torture victims. Among his workshop participants was a doctor who had treated these individuals. Kaplan contacted the Center for Victims of Torture, with whom his student had been involved, to discuss the possibilities of a photographic essay. “My idea was just basically to give a voice to the voiceless,” he said. “Torture was absolutely an under-reported issue when I approached it.”

Kaplan became one of the first journalists to go to new refugee camps constructed by the United Nations in Guinea after guerrilla war spilled over the border from Sierra Leone. Between 1991 and 2002, 50,000 people perished in a civil war in impoverished Sierra Leone, a country where a woman can anticipate living 42 years and a man 39. According to the BBC, a signature mark of one side was to chop off the hands of their enemies.

Kaplan’s plan for his two-week trip was to make a portrait of each victim, and record first-person accounts of what each had witnessed and endured. After introducing his project to various NGOs and other groups assisting the refugees, he had only six remaining days to photograph and interview. During that time he commuted four hours to and from the town where he stayed to get to the camps. By the time he was done, he had photographed 20 to 25 people. “I could have easily photographed a hundred if I [had] wished,” he said.

Reporting the darkness in human existence exacts an emotional toll upon journalists. Knowing this, Kaplan devised a plan to process his feelings. “I spent some quiet time alone every evening to really think deeply about what I’d witnessed, who I’d met,” he said. “I try not to distance myself emotionally.” When in difficult situations, journalists, like emergency and medical workers, focus upon the task at hand. There is a delicate balance of permitting feelings to guide, but not overwhelm, reporting. “While you’re photographing and while you’re interviewing, you do need a certain type of distance that allows you to concentrate, not to cry for example, and to maintain a sense of objectivity,” he said. “In my case, I do not believe in absolute objectivity, but I do believe in fairness. The best way to put it is you’ve got to keep your shit together while you’re working.”

Rewards for his efforts came in different ways. Kaplan had hoped that his documentation would be used to bring about justice for the torture victims, so he did not hesitate when the UN asked to use his work in the war crimes tribunal in Sierra Leone. Surviving Torture has been shown in Asia as well as published (as Life after torture) in InTheFray. Visitors to the Visa Pour L’image festival in Perpignan, France, were the first to experience the multimedia version.

Acclaim poured in from colleagues. In 2003, the project received the Overseas Press Club Award for Feature Photography and the Harry Chapin Media Award for Photojournalism, as well as citation by the Robert F. Kennedy Foundation. Survivors of Torture also placed in the National Headliner Awards, Best of Photojournalism Competition, Pictures of the Year International, Society of News Design, and the Photo District News Best of Photography Contest.

Observing that much renowned photojournalism executed in the past century focuses upon despair at some level, Kaplan recommends that photographers enlarge their vision. “I think the bigger issues need to be looked at,” he conveyed, noting that his two experiences judging the Pulitzer Prize helped him form this view. This is exemplified by one of Kaplan’s ongoing projects — documenting disappearing cultures around the world. (InTheFray published the three-part Vanishing heritage essay in its October, November, and December 2005 issues).

The use of torture is growing around the world, according to Amnesty International, Kaplan says. “What’s interesting to me about this topic is that at the time I pursued this a few years ago, torture was seen as completely apolitical. For example, if you asked members of Congress on either side of the political spectrum, you got a universal response of outrage against its use.”

“I believe that any rationalization of the use of torture in the greater war against terrorism is misguided to say the least, and stoops to the level of barbarism,” Kaplan adds. “It’s very shocking to see that in our culture we’re having a national discussion about its perceived use.”

 

Hostage in Haiti

Political violence results in the kidnapping of a shaky peace, the lives of the poor, and one Bulgarian journalist.

The short angry gusts of wind that bend the branches of the palm trees and blow the miasma of the meandering sewage into the nostrils are a welcome — if feeble — respite from the debilitating heat of Port-au-Prince. Market women in old floral dresses shield themselves from the sun as they balance brimming baskets of produce. Men squat under the shade of trees, selling paintings, cell phone chargers, and tubes of car oil. Children hawk plastic pouches of water out of burlap sacks perched on their heads like oversized turbans, letting the cool contents slide over their brows and ears.

“Dlo, dlo, dlo, dlo, dlo,” shriek the young vendors as they try to lure thirsty pedestrians. When a customer comes they raise an arm, dive crooked fingers inside the sack, and pull a pouch out of the lot. A sachet of water costs 10 cents.

“Delmas, Delmas, Delmas, Delmas,” echoes another army of kids, urging pedestrians to board colorful tap-taps headed to an uphill neighborhood. A ride in one of those is an experiment in patience and humor, at twice the price of water.

It is the daily pulse of Haiti’s capital city. The patter of gunshots that sometimes rips the early evening haze and dies beneath the shouts of the kid-merchants does not seem to rattle anyone anymore. Homebound workers might quicken their step, honking drivers might lower their din, but panic is only a thought, not a reaction. Moments of public danger rarely stand apart from the normally frenzied pace of this town.

It has been a full year since the killings and kidnappings of civilians began, and the staggering number of the victims — more than 1,200 killed since last September and over 500 abducted since mid-February — seems to have dulled the survivors’ capacity for shock. In July, when violence peaked and at least six people were being plucked from the streets of Port-au-Prince each day, a couple of shots from a distance seemed more salute to the dead than threat to the living.

This is the kind of thing that battles common sense: in downtown Port-au-Prince the bustle of daily life lends an illusion of security — an illusion sustained by the cacophony and the ant-like collective movement on the streets. Police officers in black uniforms ride six deep in dusty pickups with the rear doors flung open, brazenly pointing the barrels of their automatic rifles against the river of cars. Blue-helmeted U.N. troops cruise along atop snow-white armored personnel carriers (APCs), the turret mounts swiveling about jammed intersections. The proximity of cops and soldiers diminishes the immediate danger, and so the illusion grows, despite the alarming statistics.

But the pushing crowds, panting traffic, car horns and compas rhythms rapidly thin out as one leaves the heart of the city, and the illusion vanishes too. On the potholed road to Toussaint L’Ouverture International Airport, and past its peeling marquis on to Bel Air, the air hangs empty and the haze thickens like a membrane of concentrated sunlight.

A tap-tap headed to an uphill neighborhood in Port-au-Prince. The cheerful colors of its facade and the contagious compas blaring from the car radio make up for a sweaty, bumpy ride in this distinctly Haitian public bus. (Gergana Koleva)

The situation

I arrived in Haiti last July to acquaint myself with a culture of dashing beauty, contagious vitality, unassuming playfulness — and joltingly stark contrasts. Although the purpose of my trip was journalistic, I had no badge, no press credentials, no letter of introduction from an important news organization. Instead, I arrived for my first dig into foreign freelancing with a modest research grant from my university in New York and a handful of local contacts given to me by a generous friend.

The check-in clerk at John F. Kennedy airport’s international departures surveyed my face, furrowed her brow, and questioned, “United Nations?” I shook my head. She studied my passport. While I waited for her to finish and tag my bags, I noticed that my line, for Flight 837 going to Port-au-Prince, was the thinnest of all surrounding Caribbean destinations.

“The situation,” as Haitians refer to the political impasse generated by the strain between the wealthy ruling elite and the masses of Haiti’s poor, had reached hysterical proportions.

Violence between chimères — the name of the mythical two-headed monster given militant supporters of former President Jean-Bertrand Aristide — and the equally militant members of the opposition has been escalating since February 2004, when Aristide left Haiti amidst a bloody popular rebellion. After his departure, hordes of admirers blocked city roads and highways with barricades of burning tires and protested the leader’s removal in chanting processions from their slum homes to the National Palace.

But if those were disparate attacks intended to inject terror during the spring and summer months, September saw the beginning of uninhibited street war. Prime Minister Gerard Latortue dubbed it “Operation Baghdad” after the rebels’ alleged use of Iraqi insurgent tactics in trying to pressure the U.S.-backed transitional government to restore Aristide. Slum residents viewed the police- and U.N.-orchestrated raids seeking to take out gang leaders in their neighborhoods as mass murder. Women, children, and elderly citizens living in proximity to alleged rebels’ homes were often killed in special operations. The chimères — who are said to be financed by the former president himself —responded by killing or kidnapping cops, civilians, and those they thought aligned with Latortue’s government and the foreign brain trust behind it. The violence claimed more than 1,000 lives and sent those who could afford it packing.

It broke off on September 30, 2004 — the 13th anniversary of the first coup d’etat against Aristide only seven months after he was inaugurated as the first democratically elected president of Haiti.

Abandoned cars and piles of trash litter the streets of Bel Air, a slum of Port-au-Prince where many militant supporters of former President Jean-Bertrand Aristide hail from. A decorative wire installation suspended between a lamppost and a house window reads “Titid,” an endearing appellation for the first democratically elected president of Haiti, who is said to have funded armed militants to protest his exile in South Africa. In the far background, the triumphant cupolas of the National Palace. (Gergana Koleva)

The priest

A young, charismatic Roman Catholic priest who spoke the language of the poor, Jean-Bertrand Aristide emerged from his pulpit in the slum of La Saline as a beloved leader of the masses during the long-overdue disintegration of the Duvalier dictatorship in the 1980s. In 1990, he won a landslide victory in unprecedented free elections, but his fiery rhetoric for empowerment of the poor did not sit well with the elite of wealthy mulattos, who to this day own most of Haiti’s natural and industrial resources. Neither did Aristide appeal to U.S. business and ideological interests in the region, or the Bush Sr. administration.

Thus in the fall of 1991, Haiti’s popular leader was overthrown. Re-installed three years later under Clinton’s presidency and with the help of 20,000 U.S. marines, and re-elected in a sham election in 2000 after sitting out a term, he was again forced to resign on February 29, 2004. But this time it was his own former partisans, backed by awakened voices from his own electorate, who insisted the humble priest had become a vicious dictator. There were marches, there were popular protests. Blood was spilt. Aristide quit.

Securing his safe exit to South Africa, where he is now in exile, the Bush administration — backed by the Canadian and French governments — asserted that Aristide stepped down voluntarily. Aristide said that American officials forced him to sign his resignation on the steps of his departing jet and “kidnapped democracy” as they shut the door behind him.

Solange holds a portrait of her son Enok, 34, who disappeared from their home in Bel Air on July 13 and whose body she found in a morgue the next day. She believes members of the Haitian National Police killed him when they invaded Bel Air searching for armed gangs. Slum residents and human rights activists have accused the police of raiding poor neighborhoods and summarily executing young men they regard as bandits. (Gergana Koleva)

Welcome to Bel Air

Bel Air’s name is a cruel joke. It hails from the colonial era when it used to be the capital’s fanciest neighborhood, and at the turn of the century its most prominent popular settlement for migrants from Haiti’s countryside. Today, tainted by a corrosive mix of human waste, rotting garbage, and burnt metal, life in this slum of Port-au-Prince is anything but fresh. Seared car skeletons line the streets. Heavy bolts lock the invisible denizens inside single-story cinderblock shacks. Palm trees poke defiantly among the tin roofs and tilted electric poles, but no friendly breeze stirs the broken spirit of the place. It is said that armed kidnappers guard its roads so as not to miss a good catch.

My translator Herby categorically refused to accompany me on this trip. My Haitian friend Garaudy who splits his time between New York and Port-au-Prince rolled his eyes and thought I should concentrate on interviewing local businessmen. My landlord Matt, a young American and former Peace Corps volunteer here, shot me a bemused look when I mentioned my plans. I won over one Haitian journalist, Reuters news service correspondent Guy Delva, but he said that we’d have to make it quick.

As we approached the house, the group of young men and women who sat on its tiny porch interrupted their talk. Some 15 pairs of eyes followed us from our car to the open door, jammed with more people, leaning, standing, and crouching at the threshold. Inside, Solange was serenely seated on the edge of the bed in a white eyelet dress and tattered flip-flops, dwarfed by a throng of neighbors around her, as if she had already been waiting for us. Her granddaughter, a solemn-faced three-year-old, sat in a chair next to her, eating a peanut butter sandwich and glancing at the floor.

Solange’s 34-year-old son, Enok, had vanished six days ago. She learned from a neighbor that police had arrested him. She didn’t know why, nor where they had taken him, so she went to inquire at the police precinct in Port-au-Prince. Nobody there knew anything about him either.

The Haitian National Police (PNH) have a bad reputation among many of Port-au-Prince’s poorest residents for the summary executions of civilians that unidentified police officers have carried out in recent months while trying to ferret out feared gang leaders. But the police are also the arch-nemesis of gangsters who see themselves as local heroes avenging the deaths of their fellow citizens.

“I knew there was one place left to look,” Solange continued. “I took my husband and we went to the morgue, and there we found him. He was killed. I know that police in black uniforms arrested him. I think the police killed him too. I don’t know who did, but he was in their hands.”

Solange doesn’t use words like “good” and “evil” when she talks about her son. She is sad and her eyes are empty, but dry. Look, look at his picture on the dining table, which has worn the same plastic tablecover for so long that the wooden corners are poking through. Its cheap metal frame is the only object in the house new enough to have a glint of luster. Other ornaments are an old mirror conquered by patina, a tattered map of Haiti, a couple of exposed sockets with dangling wires. Oh, but the walls — such bright blue fills the eye with the pristine brilliance of a postcard beach. No, he wasn’t formally employed, but he often found odd jobs at the port. He used to count the boats coming to dock at night. He was a quiet man. No, he never was involved with any of those gangs out there. Maybe he just happened to be on the street when the police came, looking for something. You see all these guys out there? They were all his friends. There’s a bunch of them who got arrested before him. It is a massacre. They bust into people’s houses and kill them.

The crowd that sat outside Solange’s door had been listening closely. They had been respectfully quiet, despite drawing more and more passers-by, until she and I breached the topic of the police. Now the narrow steps to the house are jammed with lean young men, some shirtless, some fingering their guns, and all with Aristide on their minds. As they hear us discuss the police, they begin elbowing each other for a better look.  

“Look, journalist!” one of them yells as I strain to hear my friend’s translation of Solange’s words above the din on the street. I lift my eyes to see him drawing a black pistol out of the back pocket of his jeans. He points it up in the air to amuse me, to give me, the blan, as Haitians half-humorously, half-pejoratively call white foreigners, what he believes I have come to see. Or perhaps to convey his opinion of the police.

Enok’s daughter, 3, right, plays with friends in the back alley adjoining their house. Narrow, high-walled communal passageways weave between the houses in Port-au-Prince’s shantytowns, serving both as playgrounds for children and as ambush sites for kidnappers. (Gergana Koleva)

Bel Air, day two

July 20th — the day I was kidnapped — dawned as a typical day in Port-au-Prince, filled with stifling heat, shoving crowds, and ubiquitous transistors crackling with incessant news bulletins. It was the 10th day of my first foreign trip as a freelancer. Tomorrow, the streets would clog with people attending the public funeral of Jacques Roche, a journalist at the daily newspaper Le Matin who had been kidnapped and brutally murdered one week earlier after his family came $240,000 short of paying a $250,000 ransom. Many of his colleagues believe he was killed less for failing to pay up than for his adamant opinions against Aristide.

I’d never met Roche, but he had been my friend Dario’s high school teacher in Haiti almost 20 years ago. The two had remained close over the years and, following Dario’s suggestion, I emailed him last spring. He promised to help me once I got to Haiti. He was kidnapped on July 10th, the day I arrived.

The spate of kidnappings that erupted in Port-au-Prince last February have been attributed to political and criminal gangs with loyalties to Aristide and the lucrative side of a climate of insecurity. An Indian businessman and a Russian contractor were kidnapped in May, but were released after paying a ransom. A local doctor, a police officer, a Red Cross worker, and Jacques Roche were also kidnapped last summer, and killed.

Despite such alarming statistics, I had visited Bel Air to speak with Solange, and then, testing my luck, decided to go a second time into the neighborhood known to belong to the chimères. In Haiti’s 200-year history, the urban poor, whose interests these urban soldiers claim to defend, have never been regarded as worthwhile citizens by the country’s successive oligarchies, except for a few brief moments during Aristide’s presidency — first in 1991, then in 2000. Despite the fact that during his second term Aristide too had stripped the poor of the fragile hope for getting their voices heard in the hallways of the National Palace, many still regarded him as the humble Catholic priest who had fanned the flames that ended the Duvalier family dictatorship in 1986, and as their personal and only savior. I went to Bel Air in the hope of learning from those people why they still put their trust in him.

The whipping rain, huge potholes, and heaps of rotting garbage made navigating the narrow streets a daunting task for me and Guy, so at first I thought the young man who jumped in front of our blue Nissan Saloon needed help. That was before I saw his gun, ordering us wordlessly to pull up and step out.  

My camera, tape recorder, cell phone, and sterling silver earrings quickly vanished in the pockets of the angry-faced men who stood us against a cement wall. My friend’s face glistened with sweat as he silently nodded to the gunman’s demand that he leave Bel Air immediately, and leave me there, the muzzle rammed into his temple. The rain beat down the rutted pavement, sweeping the streets clean of passersby. But it was only when a skinny youngster grabbed my wrist and pulled me inside an inner alley that I fully realized the danger. Prodding me onward, he brought me to an empty crumbling shack, where several others soon surrounded me, wrapping strands of my hair around their fingers and uttering obscene remarks.

As one of the men stared at me, I thought, desperately, to ask him about his name, using one of the few Kreyol phrases I knew. “Komoun ou rele?”

“Poshu,” he answered. He was a character out of a Miami gangster flick — muscular, barechested, with the smell of marijuana on his breath. “We’re Haitian mafia, baby,” he said in unaccented English. I wondered if he was one of those Haitian-American deportees angry at losing their place in the promised land, as some of Haiti’s criminals are said to have been. “It’s revolution,” he added.

“Revolution against whom?” I asked, but Poshu only repeated, “Revolution.”

My eyes traveled from one frowning man to the next. What to do about the one by the door, brandishing his rusty weapon and bearing down on me in silence?

I ventured a simple word. “Police?”

They all gathered around me. One took out a wallet and showed me a baby boy’s picture. I looked at Poshu for translation. “His son,” he said. “Dead.” The move was popular. The gunman at the door hid the weapon and came near me. He too took out his wallet, and there too was a baby’s photo.“Nephew. Dead. Don’t worry. No violence. Only money,” Poshu smiled at me, evidently amused by the mask of horror on my face. “Police mal. Anpil mal.”

If it hadn’t been tragic, my role as a POW against police brutality could have been comical. How could I, a Bulgarian national, be a meaningful pawn in the hands of a dozen desperate, disenfranchised Bel Air thugs? The Bulgarian embassy closest to the epicenter of this spectacle was in Cuba, and U.S. Embassy officials had told me before I arrived in Haiti that because I don’t hold an American passport, I was not to call on them in an emergency.

Ultimately, I was not as important to the chimères’ cause as Roche and the men who shared his fate. I am a woman, and so far no kidnapped woman has been killed — though a few have committed suicide after being viciously tortured. I was also fortunate to have been captured along with a veteran Haitian journalist, whose reputation went a long way with the urban gangsters he frequently writes about. They did not get the $100,000 they requested for my release, though they did get the contents of our wallets. The confluence of these circumstances allowed me to walk out of my three-hour confinement miraculously unharmed, but they also allowed me a profoundly intimate look at the possible effects of attempting to document the lives of people whose self-appointed guardians do not want to be documented.

 

Whose music is it anyway?

Bakari Kitwana’s latest book explores hip hop’s crossover appeal, but pegs some unrealistic expectations on the art form’s ability to address social issues across race and class boundaries.


(Perseus Books Group)

This guy ain’t a mother-fuckin MC,
I know everything he’s got to say against me,
I am white, I am a fuckin’ bum, I do live in a trailer with my mom,
My boy future is an Uncle Tom …
And never try and judge me dude
You don’t know what the fuck I’ve been through.
But I know something about you,
You went to Cranbrook, that’s a private school,
Whats the matter dawg you embarrased?
This guys a gangster?
His real name’s Clarance.
And Clarance lives at home with both parents,
And Clarance’s parents have a real good marriage,
… fuck Cranbrook.
Fuck the beat I go accapella,
Fuck a papa doc, fuck a clock, fuck a trailer, fuck everybody,
Fuck y’all if you doubt me,
I’m a piece of fuckin’ white trash I say it proudly,
And fuck this battle I don’t wanna win I’m outtie,
Here tell these people something they don’t know about me

—Eminem

In the climactic scene of Eminem’s biographical epic film 8 Mile, Rabbit, a white rapper, wins a freestyle battle against a rival black rapper. To the racially naïve, the color of the winner’s skin might come as a shock. But as illuminated in this contest, where the winner acknowledges his own whiteness and then reveals that the black rapper attended a private school, skin color alone no longer decides the champions of hip hop’s future. It’s a magnificent moment in the history of hip hop: In this brave new world, class trumps race as an overwhelmingly black audience ushers Rabbit into victory because they identify with him, socio-economically speaking, more so than his black counterpart. This is, of course, part of the mythology Eminem has created for himself, one that has made him the bestselling hip-hop artist of all time and immensely popular with whites and blacks alike.

Class act

In Bakari Kitwana’s new book, Why White Kids Love Hip-Hop, the former executive editor of The Source projects Eminem’s narrative onto all of hip hop’s white listeners: White kids love hip-hop because it addresses their increasing alienation from mainstream society. Citing a host of statistics ranging from growing unemployment rates to the rising cost of higher education, Kitwana argues that an increasing number of white youth are facing the same problems that African Americans have faced for decades: a lack of economic opportunity, deplorable school systems, the inability to earn a living wage. And then he asserts that hip-hop engages these issues more seriously than any other popular art form today.

Unfortunately, this argument loses sight of a few crucial facts. For one, there have always been a substantial number of broke white folk, and not all of them have turned to African American culture to vent their alienation (though many have, as evidenced by the early days of rock n’ roll). There are certainly other cultural outlets for alienated white people that do not involve direct appropriation of black culture. Punk, rockabilly, heavy metal, and grunge, to name a few, have all provided alternative vehicles for poor whites to voice their anger about class-based oppression. How the decline of these genres coincided with the rise of hip hop’s popularity is a fascinating topic, but unfortunately Kitwana does not fully explore the subject in his book.

Kitwana’s analysis of hip-hop as a tool of resistance for young whites also doesn’t fully take into account that poverty does not negate white privilege. Whites, as a racial group, cannot be alienated from mainstream society thanks to the very fact that they, as a racial majority, define mainstream society. While a host of class, gender, sexual, cultural, and personal issues may alienate them (or at least make them feel alienated), their race does not alienate them from the mainstream.

Compounding his book’s troubles, Kitwana asserts that “white youth’s love for hip hop, more often than not, extends beyond music and pop culture to the political arena.” Contrary to what Kitwana would have readers believe, most white kids who love hip hop are not urban, active in leftist politics, and immersed in black culture like Eminem; they are suburban, affluent, politically apathetic, know few, if any, black kids, and have much to benefit from preserving the racial and economic status quo. That is precisely why the idea of the white hip-hop fan is so fascinating: How can hip hop appeal to those who are divorced from the reality it reflects? How can a rich white kid decked out in FuBu, for example, recite every word of 50 Cent’s oeuvre while driving across the Long Island Expressway in a Lexus sport-utility vehicle?

Instead of addressing this inherent contradiction, Kitwana wastes a considerable chunk of time trying to debunk what he sees as the myth that white kids constitute the majority of hip hop’s audience. Whether whites buy more hip-hop music than blacks is irrelevant; majority or not, white audiences are responsible, at least in part, for hip hop’s tremendous explosion over the past decade. This fact, I suspect, is less the result of the politics of alienation than a long history of whites constructing black music as “cool,” dating back at least as far as the first half of the 20th century, when throngs of whites would flock to Harlem to hear all-black jazz ensembles, only to return to the world of white privilege and de facto segregation when the performance was over. Then, as now, affluent white kids construed black culture (and black people, for that matter) as dangerous, unruly, and transgressive, and observed and emulated black culture as an act of teenage rebellion. Today, however, whites are increasingly able to filter their exposure to black culture through music videos and other media, which both renders unnecessary any direct interaction between people of different races and promotes the skewed version of the culture that appears on television. In this way, white kids who grow up in a segregated environment think “acting black” means drinking 40s, packing a gun, and acting like a pimp or gangster, just like 50 Cent, Game, and Snoop (among others) do every night on MTV. Of course, such imitation is not the sincerest form of flattery and reinforces age-old stereotypes and prejudices.

In with the old, out with the new?

While Kitwana fails in his assessment of white alienation, he succeeds in asking some provocative questions about the future of hip hop: Will hip hop, like rock n’ roll before it, be completely divorced from its black roots, abandoned by blacks as the popular cultural vehicle, and reappropriated by mainstream white America? As absurd as an all-white future for hip hop may seem, one need only listen to Gwen Stefani’s recent hit “Hollaback Girl” to get a glimpse of what a predominantly white hip-hop future would sound like. One of last summer’s biggest hits, the song got equal airplay in black and white markets and was produced by the Neptunes, the ubiquitous behind-the-scenes duo whose work has defined the sound of Top 40-hip hop for years.

Though partially nonsensical, the song’s lyrics draw heavily on hip hop’s language and attitude, including the use of clever word plays to disrespect rivals — a device that hip hop inherited from the longstanding African American verbal tradition of “playing the dozens,” or taunting an opponent with a series of increasingly insulting (and humorous) accusations in front of an audience. In this case, Stefani’s unnamed opponent is grunge icon Courtney Love, who publicly denounced Stefani as the music industry’s “cheerleader.” Stefani sets the record straight, challenging Love to an after-school fight, during which she is “gonna make you fall, gonna sock it to you,” until “that’s right, I’m the last one standing, another one bites the dust.” It’s an old school hip-hop battle between two former alternative rock queens and, perhaps, a foreshadowing of the future of pop music.

To complicate matters, Stefani’s song illuminates the difference between what Kitwana terms “old racial politics” and “new racial politics.” According to Kitwana, the old racial politics is “characterized by adherence to stark differences — cultural, personal, and political — between black and white,” while the new racial politics is “marked by nuance, complexity … and a sort of fluidity between cultures.” By extension, Stefani, in the terms of the old racial politics, is a white person trying to be a Japanese person trying to be a black person. But according to the new racial politics, there are no fixed rules and everything is fair game.

While mainstream hip-hop, as seen nightly on BET and MTV generally reinforces the stereotypes of black men as armed, dangerous, and oversexed — and black women as dumb, materialistic, and promiscuous — Kitwana offers another possibility: hip hop as a tool for social change. Calling for a hip-hop underground movement, Kitwana advocates the political mobilization of hip hop’s listeners and creators “to correct social ills that are negatively affecting all Americans, including young whites.” These “hip-hop activists” abide by Kitwana’s new racial politics, with “the vision and capacity to leave the old racial politics on the pages of history where it belongs.”

Kitwana goes as far as declaring that “Em[inem] represents the new racial politics,” though he admits that “in a society where the caste system of whiteness often prevails and bestows privilege, he’s a part of the oppressor class.” What’s so new about that? Even Kitwana’s subtitle, “Wankstas, Wiggers, Wannabes, and the New Reality of Race in America”, reinforces the old racial politics by evoking racist stereotypes. (“Wigger” is a particularly egregious offense. To the best of my knowledge, no one has ever been called a “Whafrican American”.)

A world where a white musician appropriates an African American art form, adds his own white twist, and makes millions of dollars while many of the art form’s pioneers die broke sounds suspiciously familiar. Today’s incarnation of Elvis is Eminem. That is not to say that Elvis and Eminem are not true artists who transcend race. But in the making of these powerful cultural icons, we must acknowledge what was lost, and from whom, in the process. If Eminem represents the new racial politics, as Kitwana claims, I’m not sure I want to say goodbye to the old.

After all, genuine progress in the racial arena will only materialize when we recognize the history of injustice against racial minorities in this country and vow never to repeat it.  

Hope for hip hop

An even more pressing question remains: Is a new racial politics possible in a world steeped in old racialisms? While it’s true, as Kitwana aptly points out, that the hip-hop generation is the first to grow up entirely in a post-civil rights era, with youth from all races “socialized around the dream of an inclusive America”, inclusion remains elusive. Racial inequalities proliferate in virtually every field of American life, from de facto segregation in public education to the racist response to and media coverage of Hurricane Katrina.

Quite simply, given the large role played by racism and racial identity in contemporary American society, it’s difficult — almost impossible — to conceptualize a new, large-scale rainbow coalition whose members, like Eminem’s 8 Mile audience, rally around issues of class, rather than race. It’s even more inconceivable that hip hop, with its racist archetypes, will be the driving force behind this revolution. But still, Kitwana’s ultimate assertion that “against all odds we must organize across race” remains compelling, even though his claim that “hip hop is the last hope for this generation and arguable the last hope for America” is exaggerated.

Amidst the larger question that Kitwana raises about the reality of race in America, his reduction of hip hop to a mere tool for political change precludes him from exploring hip hop as an art form. As a result, he overlooks the elements of hip hop that transcend race and class — namely addictive rhythms, clever word plays, and life-affirming beats. In other words, the main reason why white kids and black kids (and everyone else in between) love hip-hop: Like its predecessor, roll n’ roll, it’s got a good beat and you can dance to it.

 

The beauty of difference

Zadie Smith’s latest novel, On Beauty, is many things. Chief among them: an homage to differences.


(The Penguin Press)

For those of mixed heritage — who straddle more than one race, nationality, faith, class, or whatever else — uncovering a coherent identity can be a complicated emotional journey. There are multiple, potentially conflicting, avenues and models, and choosing one or melding several is difficult business. This may be part of why Zadie Smith — herself the product of an English father and Jamaican mother — returns to this endlessly rich topic in her third novel, On Beauty, which was short-listed for the 2005 Man Booker Prize. As with her acclaimed debut novel, White Teeth, published when she was a mere 23 years old, and her less stunning second book, The Autograph Man, Smith ambitiously mines the cultural morass of mixed worlds. Now, with her latest work, she paints her most vivid portrait of the challenges and ecstasies of multiculturalism.

Her tool for this project is the skeleton of E.M. Forster’s Howard’s End, restyled by the liberal, chaotic family of Howard and Kiki Belsey, residents of the imaginary college town of Wellington, Massachusetts. As with Forster’s story, On Beauty opens with an awkward sexual meeting of two families of different ilk — the Belseys and the Kippses. An unlikely friendship grows between Mrs. Kipps and Kiki, resulting in one secretly bequeathing an invaluable object to the other. But whereas Forster focused almost exclusively on class and sex, Smith takes the plunge into the messy nexus of every potential category of identity and difference. Howard is a white British art history professor who escaped working class London for the almost ivy halls of Wellington University. Kiki, his intuitive and (now) obese black wife, grew up in rural Florida and works as a hospital administrator. At first glance, the Belsey family’s most glaring difference is written in black and white. But Howard, Kiki, and their three children navigate an array of cultural confrontations within their own home: intellectual versus intuitive, rich versus poor, urban versus rural, British versus American, secular versus Christian, and so on.

Each of the three children has latched onto some piece of what he or she perceives as the family’s true heritage, and has generally rejected the rest. Jerome, the eldest, has found God and turned to Monty Kipps, his father’s neoconservative nemesis in the culture wars, after a stint in London and a leave from Brown University. A Caribbean-British public intellectual and a famed man of faith, Monty has recently published a bestseller on Rembrandt — also the subject of a sprawling, perpetually unfinished treatise penned by Howard. Zora, the middle child, is a self-absorbed overachiever. She has taken the intellectual route, joining her father at Wellington, where she’s fast become an outspoken figure on campus, crusading for whatever may further her academic career. Levi, the youngest, has renounced his middle-class upbringing for the streets of Roxbury, where he swaggers under too-big hoodies and sagging denim, feigns poverty, and “hustles” DVDs alongside the truly desperate.

This already fragmented household is roiled by the revelation that Howard has had an affair. To add insult to injury, his lover is Kiki’s exact opposite: a white, exceedingly thin university colleague. Things get rockier still when Monty Kipps is invited to be a visiting scholar at Wellington, threatening Howard’s tenuous untenured position on campus, challenging affirmative action programs, and generally upsetting the college town’s (and the Belsey family’s) progressive equilibrium. The utopian ideals of the Belseys are further tested by a social experiment with Carl, self-taught poet/rapper, who is charitably folded into academic life, for a time.

In this fractured world, identity is an unpredictable and highly malleable phenomenon. Despite whatever ostensibly unites people — the same shade of skin, the same faith or lack thereof, the same aesthetic or intellectual mien, the same politics, the same weight, the same income or need for it — all of these only thinly connect one person to another in reality. Nothing is universal.

Again and again, characters are faced with embarrassment, rejection, or awkwardness when they assume too much likeness or difference based on outward appearances. Almost every character adjusts his or her language or manner to negotiate emotional situations and relationships, both intimate and distant. When Kiki gets ruffled over her kids’ behavior, she takes on the no-nonsense Southern parlance of her own mother. Likewise, when Howard visits his father, a butcher, in the drab old neighborhood of his youth, he hears “his own accent climbing down the class ladder a few rungs to where it used to be.” This mimicking of elders extends to the next generation of Belseys when Levi attempts to organize his co-workers against working on Christmas day at a music megastore. His normal voice dissolves into an urban drawl to woo LaShonda, an African American single mother of three. Unlike the mostly middle-class white kids who join the protest, Levi is shocked that LaShonda is eager to pick up the extra shifts at time-and-a-half.

Levi in particular collides with the world in his search for an authentic sense of self. In Wellington, he assumes every passerby is eyeing him suspiciously because of his skin color. And some are. However, even in Roxbury, where he at least externally fits in, he is divorced from those around him: “How strange it was to see streets where everybody was black! It was like a homecoming, except he’d never known this home.”

Smith often blunts these interactions with curious humor. In one scene, for instance, Levi is taking a break from protesting for fair wages for his “crew” of mostly Haitian immigrants who work $4-an-hour jobs or hawk knockoff purses on the street. When his brother Jerome appears walking the family dog, Levi introduces his friends, who’ve “got his back.” He then says of the dog, a Wienerschnitzel, “And this is my little foot soldier. He’s my lieutenant. Murdoch always got my back.”  

Ironically, the weakest and most tedious moments occur where Smith attempts to bend her characters, particularly Kiki and Mrs. Kipps, into Forster’s scenes. The too close adaptation of Forster’s dialogue between Margaret Schlegel and Ruth Wilcox seems out of step with Smith’s otherwise cleverly updated story. The book would likely have worked just as well without the overly obvious nods to Forster.

Smith is strongest when she orchestrates jarring social interactions: Howard’s sexual exchanges with a student or his meeting with his racist father, and the Belsey children’s slow awakening to the politics of suffering. Despite the creeping sadness and depravity of such scenes, Smith does not leave the reader with a completely bleak outlook on this jumbled landscape. There are no clear or tidy answers but, like Forster, she shows that as long as one deals with others in good faith, one can find unbounded beauty in differences.

 

Stroller pushers at El Barrio’s gate

Chango’s Fire takes on gentrification and a clash of cultures in East Harlem.


(HarperCollins)

Two sights illustrate the gentrification that has crept into New York’s East Harlem: On one block in the neighborhood, known as El Barrio by its largely Puerto Rican residents, a Starbucks has opened and welcomes white newcomers and Latinos who choose the trendy cafe over the old corner bakery. Up the avenue, the Salsa Museum attracts tour buses full of outsiders eager to discover the neighborhood’s musical gift. It seems that El Barrio has become known as a “cool” place to visit and live.

The Starbucks and the tour buses, both unthinkable in the area until a few years ago, provide context for Ernesto Quiñonez’s new novel, Chango’s Fire. Much has changed since the author’s first novel, Bodega Dreams, garnered acclaim upon its release in 2000. That book was set in an East Harlem where the hulks of apartment buildings burnt down for profit still laced the streets. They had done so since the 1970s in many New York neighborhoods, as a physical reminder to residents that their community and even their lives were expendable to authorities and absentee landlords alike.

By the time Quiñonez’s latest novel was published a mere four years later, much of the arsonists’ work had disappeared from East Harlem. In its place is gentrification, and Quiñonez is there to breathe life into this troubled phase of his neighborhood’s history. As in his first book, he does not simplify events; there are no clear good and evil forces here. While at one level the story is charged with politics, it is also a very personal tale about one man’s drive to be true to himself.

The story’s narrator and central figure is Julio Santana, a young man who works on a demolition crew by day to pay for college and the mortgage on his family’s condo. At night he supplements his income by setting fires, usually to vacant suburban houses whose owners want to collect the insurance. Downstairs from Julio, a white woman named Helen moves in, and soon she and Julio are a serious item. With their divergent views of the changes in the neighborhood fueling tension between them, Quiñonez cleverly brings them together to mirror the larger drama playing out in the neighborhood with the onset of gentrification.

A strange and uneasy transition

When the first white people start venturing north of 96th Street to fix up and buy condos, the reaction from the locals is often openly hostile. People who have lived through disinvestment know it wasn’t their own people who arranged for their homes to burn. But that isn’t why they’re angry at the newcomers. They are angry because many of the gentrifiers show little interest in or respect for the customs brought from the island by Puerto Ricans in the 1950s. In fact, many whites seek to bar the old culture from invading their new enclaves, socializing inside, rather than on their front stoops, and building gates to privatize these spaces.

But not all the new folk are oblivious to or uncaring about the hurt their arrival causes. Helen, for instance, knows the culture shock her family experienced when they moved from the liberal college town of Ithaca, New York, to a small rural community, Howard City, Wisconsin, where their foreign cars and Helen’s mother’s protest of the arms race aroused suspicion. Helen, then, is not wholly ignorant of what her presence in East Harlem implies. She wants to meet people in the community, partly because she wants her budding gallery to fit into the neighborhood’s Latin-inspired art scene. Still very much an outsider herself, she is also far more sensitive to injustice. But she still doesn’t see the animus she encounters as justified.

Here Quiñonez tries to show how underneath the surface, outsider and native-born have quite a bit in common. Helen brings her feminist sense of outrage with her into a culture where machismo has always ruled, but then observes a crowd of women who attack a child rapist in the street with their brooms. Curiously, Quiñonez stops short of making his point in this scene, sidestepping what seems to be Helen’s moment of awakening, her entry point into what is otherwise an unfamiliar culture. Instead, he dwells on her inability to grasp why no police car appears to take control of the situation. Julio is then able to educate her that the people in El Barrio do not share her assumption that cops serve and protect. Quiñonez does give Helen credit at many points in his book for making sense of the community’s problems. In this scene Helen might not only understand the problems, but have her own insight on how to address them.

Meanwhile, another wrinkle appears in the gentrification tale. The whites with money aren’t the only new faces in the community. Immigrants from Mexico have arrived, too, opening restaurants on avenues once dominated by the Puerto Ricans, and they board, 10 to a room, in hovels that have been subdivided several times over. They take the jobs on construction sites that the Italians (who were poor immigrants in Spanish Harlem before it was Spanish) see as beneath them. The Mexicans’ presence doesn’t seem to throw the neighborhood into a fit the way the whites’ does, but their arrival could mean just as significant a shift in the population.

Eddie is one of the few Italian holdouts who didn’t flee to the suburbs or Queens when the Puerto Ricans arrived after World War II. He has made a living over the years burning down people’s homes, sometimes with people still inside. He probably burned down Julio’s first home, forcing him and his family to move into the projects they occupied for the rest of his childhood.

Interestingly enough, Julio goes to work for Eddie as a young man, since the pay from construction work is insufficient to pay for his condo and get him through college. Like the Bodega Dreams lead character who was employed by a drug hustler who doubled as a housing developer, Julio has a job people in so-called normal neighborhoods can only wonder about. The arrangement works well for Julio until he slips up, leaving behind evidence that one of his house-burnings was no accident. Then, as in the first book, the illicit nature of the local economy shows its true colors, as Eddie forces Julio to pay dearly for his mistake.

Here Chango, the Santeria god from the book’s title, comes into play. One in a pantheon of deities of both African and Catholic origins worshipped in parts of Latin America, the god is represented by fire and lightning. The proprietor of the neighborhood botanica tells Julio a legend about how Chango made a great error and, realizing this, hung himself to extinguish his fire. But Chango lived on because he was not in the fire itself, but in the heat it generated. As Julio’s nighttime profession gets him into trouble, he looks to Chango to teach him how to compensate for his transgressions and give himself a life beyond the flames.

The politics of politics

Quiñonez’s artistry in depicting the sudden changes in his neighborhood adds context to the stark public policy questions being raised in East Harlem and other gentrifying communities. Should a percentage of housing built by developers, scrambling to respond to the influx of yuppies, be set aside for people who have been there through the bad times? If so, should there be a racial component to this set-aside? Should local community boards ask developers to build their courtyards and entryways in a way that respects the cultural traditions of the low-income and non-white groups?

Puerto Rican residents have yet to respond to this challenge, Quiñonez suggests. Day by day, they watch as newcomers stream in, and some grit their teeth, but they don’t get organized. This inaction isn’t uncommon; local groups often don’t begin to seek political solutions to gentrification until the population has been transformed and the storefronts appear unfamiliar.

Quiñonez is responding to that lack of action. At a 2004 book signing at East Harlem’s Carlito’s Café, he characterized his book as a protest, a way of bringing attention to gentrification. At the same time, he wants to point to positive examples from that community, rather than dwelling on the negative aspects of ghetto life. As a comparison, consider Jonathan Lethem’s lead character of color in Fortress of Solitude, who went to prison and couldn’t fit in when he returned to his gentrified ‘hood. Quiñonez is drawn to Puerto Rican characters who are ambitious (like Julio and the narrator of Bodega Dreams, both college-educated) or entrepreneurial (like businessman Willie Bodega). Julio and Bodega suggest that prosperity can be found without gentrification.

It is probable that many residents of East Harlem would have trouble relating to Julio, however. For them there would not be a question, as there is for Julio, whether to enter the Starbucks or the bar where whites gather — they simply can’t afford to.

While Julio has dreams that may take him out of East Harlem, he also feels a strong attachment to the neighborhood. Perhaps the most authentic aspect of his character is his nostalgia for the days when he played on abandoned cars in vacant lots. Just as the neighborhood is spruced up, it feels somehow alienating to its own people. Besides, moving out would mean a tremendous loss for him and others who have made their own world within a few square blocks. As Julio says, “Helen’s people don’t seem to have mystical places like ours. They don’t have poor, holy places that speak to your soul …”

 

Shelter from the storm

What Hurricane Wilma taught a gringa about the meaning of “community” in Cancún.

During my first year in Cancún, there were times I forgot I was in Mexico. I’d be working on an article — conducting interviews in English, reading and writing in English, discussing the story with my husband, Kinich, in English — and would step outside for a break and be momentarily startled to feel the blazing sun on my face and catch sight of the little store sign across the street that reads Nuevo Paraíso, New Paradise.

Angela, who owns the Nuevo Paraíso corner store, waited until I had been patronizing her business for months before she asked me, “¿De dónde eres?” Where are you from?

“New York,” I answered.

As I turned to leave, I overheard Angela tell another customer that perhaps she would ask me for English classes. Shy person that I am, I continued walking out of the store instead of swinging around and telling her I’d be happy to teach her my native language.

Angela never did ask me for English lessons. And the rest of my neighbors were equally distant. I exchanged no more than a few words here and there, a smile, buenas tardes, with a couple of them when we passed each other coming or going. I told myself that they were busy with their lives and I with mine. But I still felt a twinge of loneliness when I saw them gather together on Friday nights: members of an inner circle of which I would never be a part.

My Mexican husband’s parents and sister, her boyfriend and two children, warmly welcomed me as a new addition to their family. With them, I found a sense of belonging. But all I felt for Paraíso, a residential neighborhood 20 minutes and worlds away from Cancún’s hotel zone and the place I had chosen to call home, was a sense of disconnect. A year after coming here, I was still the outsider, la gringa.

That is, until this October, when Hurricane Wilma came rattling into town.

A flooded parking lot in the recently constructed shopping
center known as Hollywood Plaza, which is located in one
of Cancún’s residential neighborhoods. Some businesses here
have yet to re-open. (Kinich Ramirez)

Preparing for the worst

Initially listed as nothing more than a “tropical storm,” Wilma barely caught my eye at first.

But once I read reports of preparations in Florida, I began to worry. And by Wednesday afternoon, as the weather updates became increasingly ominous, I headed to the supermarket to load up on food and other necessities. The next day, Kinich and I hurriedly organized ourselves in anticipation of the hurricane. Not wanting to face the hordes that had descended upon the supermarket, I decided to buy extra water and other odds and ends from Angela’s corner store.

It was frenzied madness at Angela’s as well. Customer after customer came in, searching for flashlight batteries or tape for their windows. Most seemed panicked now that it looked like the storm would bear down right on us. It had been nearly 20 years since a storm of similar magnitude — 1988’s Hurricane Gilbert — wreaked havoc on the area, and many people had grown complacent during the intervening years.

On Thursday evening, Kinich’s parents, sister, and her children arrived. We had arranged that they would ride out the storm with us, and their arrival brought an almost festive air to our apartment.

But where was Morocco, the family dog?

Apparently, there had not been enough room for him in the car, so my mother-in-law and I drove back to get him. On the open road, we felt the full brunt of the rising wind as it swooped down from a foreboding gray sky, shaking the tree branches forcefully. A stoplight swung violently back and forth in the wind, looking like it could snap off its pole at any moment.  

Morocco seemed filled with nervous energy on the car ride back. Jerking his head from window to window, he could barely keep his balance as we zigzagged through the streets, trying to avoid other drivers who seemed too preoccupied with getting home to pay attention to the road. It was a relief to pull into my apartment lot at last.

The apartment was a flurry of activity. My father-in-law and husband were nailing up wood outside to protect the apartment. My mother-in-law began putting away the extra food that the family had brought with them. And my sister-in-law, niece, and I set to work covering the windows with tape.

Our movements carried a sense of urgency, as the shrieking wind and sporadic rain reminded us that we did not have much time to get things in order before the storm descended upon us.

Neighbors from Cancun’s Paraiso neighborhood
form a conga line at an impromptu street party held
after Hurricane Wilma passed. (Kinich Ramirez)

Nature’s fury

That night, we ate dinner and watched television, trying to behave as if it were just another family gathering. But despite our best efforts, there was a palpable tension inside the apartment as we heard the wind growing ever fiercer outside.

My niece and nephew fed off our nervous energy, jumping about and refusing to sleep when my sister-in-law called them to bed. Finally, close to 10 p.m., we all settled down to our respective rooms: My sister-in-law and her two children in the guestroom-cum-office, my in-laws in the master bedroom, and my husband and I in the living room.

I couldn’t sleep, kept awake thinking about what Wilma had in store for us. Around midnight, a loud noise sounded in the distance, jerking Kinich out of his sleep. “What was that?” I whispered to him.

“One of the transformers just blew,” he replied.

Right then, we heard another explosion: the second transformer.

Later in the night, the third and final transformer died, and with that, we lost our electricity.

By Friday morning, the wind had died down somewhat, but conditions were still miserable enough to keep us trapped inside the apartment. When I peered out one of the few windows we had not boarded up, I saw that the steady rain had shrouded our neighborhood in a murky darkness. It was difficult to make out much else. I turned away from the depressing scene outside the window and focused my energy on helping with the kids and catching up on sleep for the rest of the day.  

That evening, the battering of our city reached full force. By this time, we had all moved into the guestroom because water had begun to seep into the living room and master bedroom. It was like a family sleepover, complete with joking and play-fighting amongst all of us, as we tried to keep our spirits up.

But by about 7 p.m., the amount of rain cascading into the master bedroom had become a serious matter. One side of it looked like a wall of water. With the bedroom windows rattling so hard they were on the point of shattering, we all took turns mopping up the deluge with towels, until Kinich devised a barricade to route the rapidly rising water into our bathroom. Utterly exhausted, we turned in to sleep at 9:30 p.m.

Once again, I was too nervous to sleep, imagining that every clatter and boom I heard was something crashing into our windows. The gales of wind had reached such a crescendo that I was sure the roof was going to be torn right off our third-story building. The force of the wind was so strong that at one point, the building began swaying. In the wee hours of the morning, my father-in-law and I rose to check on the water level in the master bedroom. We spent an hour mopping and then went back to bed.

On Saturday, we woke to a subdued weather situation. Since the only radio station broadcasting news about the storm had abruptly gone off the air, we began making calls to friends and family in other parts of the world, in the hope that they could give us any information about the storm. I finally got through to a friend in Texas, who told me that Cancun was now in the eye of the hurricane.

So, despite the eerie calm outside, the storm had not yet passed.

We shared the news with our next-door neighbors, the Guzmán Martinez family, and then decided to reinforce some of the front windows, as the wind was slated to change direction once the eye of the storm passed over us.

My father-in-law and I went out on the front terrace to nail an air mattress up over the wood, but a gust of wind lifted him right off his feet. He managed to regain his balance by bracing himself against the wall and, together with Kinich, we hurriedly finished securing the air mattress before rushing back into the safety of the apartment.  

Finally, on Sunday morning, after hours of being shut up inside, we woke to the news that Hurricane Wilma had moved on, heading for other unlucky destinations.

My three-year-old niece, overwhelmed with giddy happiness, began singing a song she composed on the spot that translated into something like, “The sun is shining and now we can play. The hurricane is gone!”

An overturned phone booth overlooks a
deserted beach in Cancun’s hotel zone, a week after
Hurriance Wilma wreaked havoc on the area. (Erin Cassin)

It takes a village

By a minor miracle, our apartment had remained completely intact through the hurricane. The only damage sustained were the holes in the walls where we had nailed up wooden planks for protection against the wind. There was also mold growth in nearly every room.

I compared notes with Doña Ramona from next door. Their apartment had lost some of its windows and water was still leaking into every room. My problems were minimal in comparison.

Yet, our next-door neighbors took care of us those first days after the storm passed.  Ramona gave us fish, chicken, and barbecued meat, from her seemingly endless supply of food. Her husband bestowed a couple of cold beers upon us, a luxury since no home had refrigeration capability due to the loss of electricity and the city had forbidden the sale of alcohol.

That first night after the storm, my husband, his sister, her boyfriend Javier, and I sat down for a meal of steaming hot fish soup and a couple of chilled beers while the children slept. Javier had been the first to check on us, stopping by briefly during the eye of the storm and returning once again after the hurricane passed.

We were chatting after the meal when we were interrupted by the sound of a drum and then cheers from the street below. From our balcony, we saw that a group of neighbors had gathered in the darkness of the street and were dancing to the beats of a skilled drum player. My husband grabbed his camera and practically flew down the stairs, with me clumsily stumbling behind him. Soon, we were in the midst of an impromptu street party.

Other drummers arrived and one neighbor, who I had never seen before, began honking her car horn in time with the percussion music. Another neighbor gestured at me to dance in the middle of the circle. People had been showing off their skills one by one, but I shook my head. She pulled me into the middle of the circle anyway and I performed my usual routine of snapping my fingers for two beats before heading back to the anonymity offered by the circle’s outer fringe.

My neighbor Angela was in the crowd and we greeted each other with hugs and talked about how liberating it felt to be out of the house after so many days of being trapped inside.

Soon, we had formed a conga line and started doing the limbo. Then, someone pulled his car up and started blasting music. Various couples paired up to show off their intricate moves. My husband and I twirled about, making up for our lack of skills with plenty of laughter. After about 40 minutes, we headed back to the apartment with the sound of the music following us.

Ceiba del Mar Spa Resort stands forlornly on
the shores of Puerto Morelos, which neighbors Cancun
to the south. The ravaged spa will be closed for at
least six months due to the damage caused by
Hurricane Wilma. (Erin Cassin)

Paradise lost and found

The following week was a busy one, as we cleaned up our apartment and organized night watches with neighbors. The lack of electricity that first week drew people out of their apartments, onto their balconies and into the street. Without computers or television, many of us re-learned the old-fashioned art of neighborly conversation to occupy our time.

When I went to hang up laundry on the roof of our building, I ran into the neighbor who had pulled me into the dance circle. We started talking and Lupe told me that she was from Mexico City but had moved to Cancun to give her children a more peaceful life. We spent a good half hour up on the roof chatting and I left feeling like I had made a friend.  

And for the first time, I hung out inside Doña Ramona’s apartment, when I stopped by to present her with gifts of candles and hand sanitizer that I had picked up at the only open supermarket in the vicinity.

Ramona has lived in Paraíso for 15 years. She tells me that it doesn’t look like the same neighborhood anymore after Wilma. She was accustomed to looking out her window and seeing the vibrant green of our street’s vegetation. It pains her to see a wasteland of dead trees instead.

It has been heart-wrenching to see the damage in and around Cancun. The storm has left a maze of destruction in its wake, as the city’s resplendent foliage has been replaced by rotting stumps and withered branches. Much of the beachfront’s glistening white sand has been supplanted by menacing-looking rocks, and the hypnotizing turquoise of the sea has been churned into a dark grey froth. Nature will restore herself eventually, but for now, my oasis has been shred to tatters.

I am saddened by the destruction but it is heartening to see the rapid pace of the recovery efforts and the ingenuity of everyone working to return the neighborhood to normalcy.

And for once, I truly feel part of the community. While looting and chaos broke out in other parts of the city, my neighbors, my family, and I were dedicated to protecting all of us on this street from any further misfortune.          

This sense of community has remained with me, even now, a month after the hurricane hit.

Doña Ramona and I spend more time talking on our shared terrace than we ever did in the year leading up to the storm. She is busy now that she’s returned to her regular routine, but I’ve made her promise to come over for coffee once her schedule calms down a bit.

As for Lupe, I bumped into her in the corner store last week and she hugged me like an old friend. She told Angela to make sure to include me the next time they plan a night out with the other women of the neighborhood. Angela agreed, saying it would be a good way to “integrate” me.

It looks like there is place in that inner circle for me after all. It just took a hurricane for me to realize it.  

The author browses through a rack in front of
a closed shop on Avenida Tulum, the main
street in downtown Cancun. Various vendors flocked to
this area in the week following Hurricane Wilma, as
many of the usual marketplaces were not open for business. (Kinich Ramirez)

 

Rising above words

My grandfather and I share volumes in silence.

Winner of BEST OF INTERACT (SO FAR) for “Tofu and toast”

We don’t chat in living rooms filled with cherrywood furniture or sip tea in gold-trimmed china cups.

No, there is no small talk, no family gossip, no storytelling between us.

Instead, Grandpa and I bond each summer when I sit down cross-legged on the floor beside his La-Z-Boy recliner. His feet are both propped up, which is especially good for his left foot, the one pierced by World War II shrapnel. The jagged piece of metal has lodged inside his ankle bone since World War II.


Grandpa and baby Rhian share a moment together.

Side by side we watch old Japanese warrior films that I cannot understand. But the movies are secondary, because I am busy learning about Grandpa by osmosis. I study his facial expressions for reaction to the plot. When does he lean closer to the screen? Or twitch with empathy for the characters? At what moment does he lose interest and shift his weight back into his favorite chair?

During commercial breaks I prepare a hot water foot massage bath and add Hawaiian rock salt to help draw the yellowish pus from his foot. I then help my mom cut Grandpa’s toenails and disinfect his wounds with a Q-tip saturated in iodine. We place bandages on his sores.

He nods, smiles, and softly says Thank you” before absentmindedly scratching the dressings off, as he watches the TV screen.

Grandpa is the only man I would ever think of learning to cook for. I want to cook tofu just right — golden on both sides. I sprinkle furikake seasonings over white sticky rice and slice omelets diagonally so they resemble floating buoys on top of steaming miso soup. And I serve it to him right before Wheel of Fortune.  

As Vanna White reveals the letters on screen, I can tell when Grandpa knows the answer: His eyes bulge forward slightly, and he chews a little faster.

My father wonders how my Grandpa and I fill the silent spaces, how we can build love from a relationship with no words.

My grandfather and I never speak.

At least not on a level where people can hear us.

 

Remembering to remember

Coming to grips with persecution, one Jew at a time.

Winner of BEST OF OFF THE SHELF (SO FAR) for “Strangers in a strange land”

Always remember. Never forget. These seem to be the unwritten tenets of Judaism, not just when it comes to the Holocaust, but when it comes to embracing one’s Jewish identity. (How can one forget her Judaism when she smells gefilte fish or watches a Woody Allen flick?). Thanks to a series of coincidences — the reviewer who vanished, along with the review copy of Nick Ryan’s Into a World of Hate that I had sent her, the last minute collaboration with the Asian American Writers’ Workshop that resulted in a special issue of ITF concerning “home” — that left me frantically searching for a topical book to review for OFF THE SHELF for our July 2004 issue, these maxims are also what drew me to David Bezmozgis’ recently published Natasha and Other Stories.

There were plenty of other newly published books, both fiction and non-fiction, concerning migration and citizenship that I could have reviewed instead. Perhaps I would have chosen the one concerning immigration along the U.S./Mexico border had I felt a deeper personal connection to Mexico or the Texas valley, or had the book’s synopsis not sounded so trite. But instead, I chose a collection of short stories about Latvian Jews struggling to fit into the North American Jewish Diaspora. At first, it was just the emigration tale of the Soviet Jewry that attracted me; when I became a Bat Mitzvah more than a decade earlier, in the midst of the Jewish exodus from the U.S.S.R., I was paired with a Soviet “twin,” a thirteen-year-old Jewish girl living in the Soviet Union whose government prohibited her from becoming a Bat Mitzvah. Though she and I exchanged numerous letters about our families and schools, we barely discussed Judaism, much less her experience with it in the Soviet Union, for rather obvious reasons. Peculiarly, at that moment when I was directly encountering another’s religious persecution and becoming an adult in the eyes of my religion, I don’t think I grasped, not even remotely, the direness of my twin’s circumstances, the importance of free expression, or the disparate experiences of Jews in other parts of the world.

My naïveté didn’t stem from too much focus on the social aspects of becoming a Bat Mitzvah or a failure of my elders to educate me about the Jewish experience in other parts of the globe. The mere existence of the twinning program and my participation in it were, of course, steps in the right direction. But simple statistics and even the occasional, dry letter from a young Soviet girl couldn’t really put a human face on these alternative realities. Even now, years after the collapse of the Communist bloc, persecution of Jews under the Soviet regime is still unimaginable in ways that the Holocaust never can or will be — this despite the fact that countless survivors of the former persecution still wander the earth while the number of Holocaust survivors is rapidly dwindling. So as clichéd as it sounds, I selected the autobiographically informed Natasha and Other Stories to better understand the predicament faced by Soviet Jewry, to understand what it was like to be prohibited from choosing, much less practicing, your religion and carrying it on to the next generation, to relate to those who were not entirely unlike myself.

But as I read Natasha, with its focus on the struggles of recent Soviet immigrants trying to assimilate into North American Jewish society, I didn’t feel like I was gaining a better understanding of the persecution of Jews in the Soviet Union. That was, I realized, exactly Bezmozgis’ point: assimilated Western Jews can’t relate, we have forgotten some of our own, we have failed to always remember. For me, the most poignant aspect of this realization lies in the fact that I have always been a bit disconcerted about my own relationship to the Holocaust. During two class trips to concentration camps — Dachau when I was 13, another on the outskirts of Berlin at 21 — I felt more isolated than ever as my classmates became deliberately more solemn around me, the sole Jew in each group, from the time that we arrived at the camp until hours later. When they did speak to me, it was to offer an, “I’m sorry,” with the understanding that I knew what they were apologizing for. Or to ask if I’d lost anyone in the Holocaust. (I hadn’t, aside from some distant relatives of my long-deceased maternal grandfather.)

Each time, I couldn’t help wondering: Why did they apologize to me? I wasn’t looking for them to be hostile or indifferent, but another six million non-Jews died as well. Were they also going to apologize to the closeted queer in the bunch who would soon make his sexual preferences known? Did they not feel sad for their loss as humans as well?

And why was I perhaps the least visibly moved by the camp? Certainly not because I’m indifferent to human suffering or because I’m an anti-Semite or a Holocaust-denier. When you attend Hebrew School three times a week for a decade and live in a culture where politics and the media refer every atrocity back to the Holocaust, you are reminded to remember at every turn.

But somewhere in the process you do forget — people who have been persecuted for other reasons, at other times, in other places, people like Bezmozgis and his family. And that’s where the problem lies, in focusing so much on remembering one atrocity at the cost of obscuring others.

Reading about characters like the Kornblums, Holocaust-centric Jews who so readily conflate Judaism and the Holocaust, feels like something of a teenager’s homecoming, somewhat uncomfortable, perhaps even annoying. In other words, the perfect environment to rile us up and make us get to know those not much different than ourselves.